SPRING BREAK 2003
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*Eagle Dance at Red Rocks (IV 5.10c A0)
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*Bouldering at Bishop
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*Sport Climbing at the Owens River Gorge
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*Levitation 29 at Red Rocks (IV 5.11c)
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Note: the best climbing photos are in the second half of this page. Be sure to check 'em out!
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After a few months of doing the majority of my climbing indoors, I was psyched for spring break! The plan was to fly into Las Vegas and meet my buddy Merrick, who was in the middle of an epic climbing road-trip.
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The focus of the trip was two long routes, Eagle Dance and Levitation 29.
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Both are on the awesome, steep, 1,000 foot Eagle Wall (aka Levitation Wall). Eagle Dance follows the green line; Levitation 29 (which we did at the end of the week) follows the red line. This beautiful wall is located deep within Oak Creek Canyon; accessing it requires ~2 1/2 hours of off-trail hiking.
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<img src="levwall.JPG">
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I arrived on a Friday, close to midnight. We needed to get some sleep before climbing anything. There is exactly one campground within 60 miles of Las Vegas--and it was full. So we pulled off a road outside of town and tried to get some sleep. However we were rapidly issued expensive tickets. Clearly, sleeping at the side of the road in the middle of nowhere is a serious offense, mandating a costly fine.
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<img src="ticket.JPG">
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So we moved to "plan B"--sleep in the back of the car in a supermarket parking lot.
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<img src="car-lot.JPG">
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The next morning, we checked our email at the local library, then utilized the library's quality parking lot to prepare our gear for the next day's climbing. Since there was no camping available in the area, we chose to backpack into one of the canyons and sleep at the base of the next day's climb. This makes the climbing easier, and gives us a convenient--and legal--place to camp for the evening!
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<img src="library.JPG">
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Believe it or not, Merrick actually earns money while roadtripping. He uses his laptop to program webpages for corporate clients. Before we hiked in, Merrick finished off some programming and made a quick conference call with a client.
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<img src="office.JPG">
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Our first climb, Eagle Dance (IV 5.10c), has a 2 1/2 hour approach. We started hiking around 3:30pm. Although the hike is somewhat strenuous with a full pack, the amazing setting actually made it quite enjoyable.
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Just as night was falling, we found a suitable bivy site near the climb. It was a small flat spot, about 500 feet up a huge ramp. It was extremely windy (probably 40+ mph gusts) but reasonably comfortable and sheltered.
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The next morning, the wind died off and we were ready to hit the climb!
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<img src="edbivy1.JPG">
<img src="edbivy2.JPG">
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Unfortunately we got stuck behind a slow party, and spent a couple of hours waiting for them to move along. They eventually sped up, allowing us to get on our way. Here's the first pitch:
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Looking straight up at pitch 1:
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<img src="edp1up.JPG">
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Looking straight down from the top of pitch 1:
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<img src="edp1dn.JPG">
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and, to complete the angles...looking sideways from the top of pitch 1!
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<img src="edp1ledg.JPG">
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Comfy belay ledges and great views supplemented the excellent, well-protected climbing. We both onsighted all 9 pitches, which go at 5.8, 5.10a, 5.10a, 5.9+, 5.10a, 5.9 A0 (mandatory bolt ladder), 5.10c, 5.10c, 5.8.
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We spent about 6 hours on the route (including ~2 hours of waiting for the slower party), and spent some time on the summit enjoying the views.
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<img src="eds-merr.JPG">
<img src="eds-mike.JPG">
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When it came time for the descent, we followed the guidebook's directions: "curve left onto white rock, and follow the ridge and slabs down left..."
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<img src="edd-no.JPG">
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Unfortunately the guidebook's description was completely misleading, and fairly dangerous. We spent at least an hour wandering about on this huge white slab...
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The slab narrowed down in the distance and disappeared from view. We tried to get close enough to peek over the edge, but it was extremely exposed and intimidating. Eventually we decided to backtrack.
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This was a good decision--this picture (taken on the correct way down) shows exactly where that white slab is located--it leads directly to a sheer 1,000 foot dropoff!
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red line=approximately the path we followed, black arrow=the point where we decided to turn back.
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<img src="dropoff.JPG">
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Eventually we decided to walk around an obvious red tower that we saw on the summit. Initially we thought that had to be the wrong way, because such an obvious feature would certainly be mentioned in the guidebook's descent description. Well, that WAS the right way, and it was NOT mentioned in the guidebook...
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<img src="edd-towr.JPG">
<img src="edd1.JPG">
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This correct route ended up being straightforward, and offered some great views--including views of a hidden canyon behind Oak Creek Canyon that we did not even know to exist. This hidden canyon had numerous huge rock walls, probably none of which have been climbed due to the extremely long approach that would be required to get back there.
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<img src="edd2.JPG">
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My cousin Lisa recently moved to Las Vegas with her husband Tim. Lisa & Tim are super cool, and they let us crash at their place for the night. After joining them for breakfast, we were on our way. We decided to head for an area with a better camping situation--Bishop! 
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<img src="m-brush.JPG">
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After about four hours of driving, we pulled into the Happy Boulders area and climbed a few problems. We took it easy, doing numerous warm-up problems before ticking a couple of V4's (Carnivore & Cueball) and working the moves on a V6 (Every Color You Are)
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The next day, we hit the Sad Boulders. The coolest problem of the day was definitely Mothership Connection (V4), which involves a big reach off of a fingerlock with a tricky foot sequence. After we both sent it, we moved on to Original Sin (V5), which features sustained, powerful moves with a highball finish. We both worked out the moves, but would need to be fresh to send the problem. So we moved on and did a variety of easier problems to round out the day. Here's Merrick on the left variation of Kung Fu Grip (V2)
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<img src="mkungfu1.JPG">
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This hunk of rock is known as the "Cow Skull Boulder". Hmm, I wonder why...
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<img src="cowskul1.JPG">
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On Wednesday, Merrick had to get some programming work done. He spent the day at the local coffeeshop with his laptop, while I wandered about at the Buttermilks. I sent a few problems, and worked a few including the Cave Problem (V6) and Shelter From the Storm (V6).
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On Thursday, we went over to the Owens River Gorge to do some sport climbing. This place is beautiful! Every climb we did was of the highest quality: well-bolted lines on excellent rock with varied moves. Yuko was able to join us for the day, which was very cool. Climbing in a group of 3, we did China Doll (5.8), Tsing Tao (5.10a), Yellow Peril (5.10b), Mandarin Orange (5.11b), Gengis Khan (5.11b), and Sendero Luminoso (5.10b). Merrick and I both fell once on Mandarin Orange, but otherwise we each onsighted every climb. Yuko pulled off a perfect record for the day, not falling once!
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<img src="yuko10a0.JPG">
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<img src="merowen1.JPG">
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Sendero Luminoso is actually 115' long. Since my rope was 'only' 60m, it was tricky to lower off--When Yuko lowered me after I led the pitch, I was 30 feet off the ground when she ran out of rope! Consequently she tied in, and climbed UP while I climbed DOWN. After she removed all the quickdraws on toprope, I was able to lower her straight down to a ledge system which she then traversed to get back on the ground. Fairly complicated for a laid-back day of sport climbing!!
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<img src="sendero1.JPG">
<img src="snddown0.JPG">
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On Friday, we drove back to Red Rocks to do a route I have been eyeing for some time: Levitation 29 (IV 5.11c). This is considered the finest climb at Red Rocks. It recently gained additional fame in the book "50 Favorite Climbs", where Lynn Hill--arguably the most accomplished climber of all time--lists it as her favorite route.
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Again, Levitation 29 (red) fires straight up the steep right side of Eagle Wall. Eagle Dance (green) is slightly to its left.
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<img src="levwall.JPG">
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Once again, we hiked in and camped in the canyon. This time we found a less windy place to sleep deeper in the canyon.
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<img src="levbivy.JPG">
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The next morning we got up at 4:45am, and hiked the rest of the way to the route. We arrived at the base of the climb by 7:00am. However it was extremely cold, and we waited for the sun to hit the bottom of the route before starting up at 8:00am.
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Like Eagle Dance, Levitation 29 has lots of bolts with supplemetal gear placements in some places. Strangely though, the very first bolt was missing--only a hole with a metal sleeve remained in its place. This made the start of the climb somewhat sketchy, as the best protection I could arrange was a sling draped over a fairly loose flake, backed up by a questionable stopper. As I climbed 5.10a-ish moves with this sketchy pro far below my feet, I was quite relieved to get to a big, shiny bolt (originally the _second_ bolt). Once that was clipped, we were good to go. The moves on the first pitch were a bit funky, but we pulled it off without any additional problems.
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<img src="levp1-1.JPG">
<img src="levp1-2.JPG">
<img src="levp1-3.JPG">
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The second pitch has one of the route's cruxes--a big roof. The positive holds and dynamic moves were enjoyable, and sending this part gave us considerable confidence for the terrain that lay ahead.
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looking down at pitch 2:
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<img src="levp2-1.JPG">
<img src="levp2-2.JPG">
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Pitch 3 featured 120' of enjoyable 5.8 face climbing that went by quickly. Pitch 4 was sustained 5.10 face climbing.
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<img src="levp4-1.JPG">
<img src="levp4-2.JPG">
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Pitch 5 is the crux of the route. It follows a steep crack, with two distinct cruxes--one physical and one technical. I pulled off the physical crux (a strenuous fist jam at a roof), and made my way up to a big hold. First I tried climbing straight up--the holds were too small, so I climbed back down. Then I tried going up and left--nope, that isn't it--and I climbed back down again. Now I traversed straight left to an arete, and tried going up there. That didn't work either! Now I was getting tired, and finally I hung on the rope for my only fall of the route. After hanging for a couple of seconds, I noticed that I was climbing in a corner system--and that some straight-on stemming could be just what I needed. So I tried that, and it worked! The moves were delicate, but they flowed and felt true to the grade of 5.11c.
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<img src="levp5.JPG">
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Pitch 6 features stout 5.10 face climbing, on perfectly vertical rock.
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<img src="levp6.JPG">
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Pitch 7 had incredible 5.10+ face climbing and stemming, with perfect holds appearing exactly when needed. Pitch 8 was some 5.9 friction climbing--technically easier, but insecure and slightly runout.
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<img src="levp8.JPG">
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And finally, pitch 9 was some more friction climbing--a varied, enjoyable finish to an incredible route.
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<img src="levp9.JPG">
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Every belay had at least 4 bolts (!) This made it easy to anchor in and keep everything organized.
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<img src="levbelay.JPG">
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The wall was consistently steep, which added to the route's aesthetic appeal.
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<img src="levstep1.JPG">
<img src="levstep2.JPG">
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The best route I have EVER done? I would have to say yes! Levitation 29 was simply amazing--every pitch was unique, challenging, and well protected.
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After topping out, we made good time on the descent (same descent route as Eagle Dance, and as enjoyable and beautiful as ever) and got back to the car before dark. We grabbed a burger and slept in the Smith's parking lot. The next morning I flew back to Seattle, ready for some rest yet eager for my next multi-pitch climb. This was simply an outstanding week of climbing--2 long routes, supplemented with a day of sport climbing and 3 days of bouldering. Plus getting Lev29 with just one fall hinted that I can start doing long routes at a higher grade, and the possibilities are now wide open!
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