Heaven's Gate (5p 5.11a) with Merrick--Index, WA--3/13/05

Merrick and I climbed Lamplighter a few weeks back, and at the end of the pitch we noticed a bolt heading off to the right...a quick internet search revealed its identity: Heaven's Gate, a fully-bolted 4 pitch extension...Merrick was then out of town for yet another bouldering adventure, this time at Hueco Tanks TX (where he sent some pretty cool problems, including the famous Mushroom Roof (V8)). As soon as he was back in town, we returned to the upper wall for some multi-pitch bolt clipping!

Lamplighter, the first pitch (5.10c) of the full route, is sweet. It climbs the obvious squeeze chimney, which is actually quite easy thanks to big holds on either side.  At the top of the chimney, a steep & wild move (bolt-protected) leads to the upper crack, barely visible in this photo. The crack has an absolutely beautiful crux sequence, protected by a bomber nut placement and then two good bolts.

Merrick climbs the upper crux. The exit of the chimney is visible on the right side of the photo, to the right of our trail line.

Merrick leads the short second pitch, a spectacularly exposed traverse on absolutely perfect granite (5.8).

Leading off into the unknown on the same pitch.

Scoping out the start of pitch 3 (5.11a): a very big roof!

Following the amazing dike of pitch 3. The start of this pitch has very nice yet very sustained face climbing on small edges until a rest at a good hold. From there things ease up a bit.

Higher on the same pitch.

Starting out on pitch 4 (5.10+): more awesome, delicate face climbing.

Approaching the really, really improbable-looking double-roofs of pitch 5 (5.11a).

Rappelling the route after topping out. This photo gives a sense of just how big the roofs really are! The first roof isn't too bad, but the second one has some slopey moves (crux).

This route is simply incredible, one of the best either of us has ever done. The rock quality is impeccable, the position--out on an exposed buttress--is spectacular, and the climbing is continuously fun, interesting, and challenging without ever being too difficult. Heaven's Gate reminded both of us quite a bit of Levitation 29 at Red Rocks--shorter but similar in style, difficulty, and overall quality. Plus 75 minutes from my house, instead of 20 hours! Bonus.

Beta: Gear to 3.5" for Lamplighter; nothing out of the ordinary is required. After the traverse pitch, leave your rack at the anchors and continue up with at least 14 quickdraws. 2 ropes, or 1 70m rope, for the descent. You might be able to get by with one 60m, but it would be pretty sketchy!