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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 8:51 pm 
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Rodrigo
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Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:07 pm
Posts: 109
Short Version: Brian, Michelle, Laura, and I climbed Girl Next Door on Liberty Bell. I very much liked the route and would recommend it as a great option to avoid the crowds on the Beckey Route. It has pretty many segments of sustained 5.7ish climbing with a few more difficult moves that are easily protected. I would especially recommend it for someone looking to push grade.

Long Version: I won't say too much about the experience. I'm simply posting this to provide route beta, especially for someone that might be looking to push grade but would like to be familiar with what they are getting into. If you aren't interested in the beta I'd recommend stopping here. Note, I don't have any pictures but the Interwebs or someone else might be able to provide some.

Some descriptions of the route are available online and generally provide the information you might want. I think the Cascade Pass Supertopo book actually has everything you need (including a good picture of the beginning of the route online). Nonetheless, here's some more info if you'd like it. I'm apologize if I've made any slight errors in describing things. I climbed it two weeks ago and don't have any notes or pictures.

The approach: Head up the gully towards the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell. Just to the left of the notch (and just left of the Beckey Route) is a face starting down-gully as you approach. This is your target but you'll want to move climbers left of the buttress before you get to high. When you get to the bottom of the face you'll see a lovely left-facing corner above a broken ledge with a tree belay. This is your starting point.

P1 (5.7): Climb the corner (harder than it looks but no more than 5.6) and wander your way up the low angle slab to the base of a steep slab. Move to the right side of the slab (basically to the end near a tree) and make a couple of thin face moves (crux, 5.7?) up to a small ledge.

P2 (5.9-): This is the crux pitch and you can see the crux of the climb from the belay. Start by traversing 15' climbers left to the base of a finger/hand crack. The traverse will protect with a tricam or a couple different sizes of small cams (=< C4-0.4). Climb straight up the crack into a comfortable stance right before the crux move, a step to the right. This part eats pro and leads to a perfect 1" crack at a good stance. You've now protected the crux (5.9). Make a difficult step left into an awkward stance. You've done the crux and now you can protect your next moves with a small cam (yellow C3 or comparable small cam in the corner near waist height). Now just move up the flake (also good holds out on the face). There's perhaps another 5.7-8 move but it's all pretty straight forward. Just continue to follow the path of least resistance past a kitty litter pillar (that truly is the best description possible). Some of the rock in this section is loose but easy. Continue forward until you pop out onto a large slab with plenty of trees to belay from. This pitch overlaps with the Beckey Route. Note, use long runners, especially at the bottom or you'll have some rope drag issues.

P3 (5.7ish): Up the slab to the climbers left there is a face with a wide crack about 10' long. Go climb that. It's wide but protects well. Use a long runner here or you'll be a sad panda later. Climb the crack (5.7ish) and follow the path of least resistance (trending back towards the right). Soon enough you'll to a left face corner with a wide (2-3") horizontal crack extending to the left at the top. Climb up to that and use long runners when you place gear. Awkwardly jam or something else and spin yourself around the corner. I think this was harder than 5.7 but was easily protected. Now, climb up and follow a low angle crack to the top of the pitch (5.4?) where you find a tree belay and meet the Beckey Route again. Again, use lots of long runners.

P4 (5.7): Follow the Beckey Route (short slab, unprotectable) and then scramble your way to the summit.

Overall I thought there was plenty of great climbing on the route. Where the rock was loose it was easy climbing. I enjoyed this route every bit as much as the Beckey Route route and I've never seen anybody else on the route. I can't stress enough the need to place long runners effectively (and bring a bunch - perhaps 5). You can generally see where the traverses or rope-draggy places will be...so do something about it.

Gear: Standard rack to 3". I don't think I placed more than 1 of anything on a pitch but I think doubles in the 2-3" range might be nice on the third pitch. A couple extra smaller ones (0.3-0.5") might also be useful if you think you might place a lot of gear.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 12:56 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Fri Oct 26, 2012 11:32 am
Posts: 52
Cool, thanks Chris. I'll have to put this on my list in case WA Pass doesn't burn completely to the ground.

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