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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 12:39 pm 
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Raging Alpoholic
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Brendan and I have made a couple trips out to climb at Darrington this year. The first was in May, we planned to climb 'Til Broad Daylight, which I had climbed previously, as our warm-up and then hit up Silent Running. Silent Running looked a little wet and had snow partway up the first slab pitch. Not being sure how to transfer from snow to sparsely-protected slab mid-pitch, we saved it for later.

Yesterday was later and we returned for Silent Running. Silent Running is yet another fun multi-pitch slab route at Darrington. I had read before that 'Til Broad Daylight was a good warm-up for Darrington slab routes. Having done Silent Running now, I'd say that Silent Running is better. Silent Running now has been retro-bolted with all new hardware making it a more comfortable lead. Though 'Til Broad Daylight is more closely bolted than Silent Running, the old bolts on the crux pitch can make it head-y at times. You also rappel the route on Silent Running (so retreat is much easier), this is impossible to do on parts of 'Til Broad Daylight. Both routes are great though, I'm not sure which one I like better in the end. I'm excited to branch out and try more Darrington routes too. It's a huge area and there is a lot to explore.

'Til BroadDaylight
first pitch (we combined P1 and P2 as our first pitch), this is easy to do
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I lead a short pitch (our P2) then Brendan leads our third pitch
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I take off on our fourth (crux) pitch
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Most of the bolts are older on this pitch
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Brendan nearing the top of our fourth pitch
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Brendan leads our fifth pitch
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Our rappel route (straight down and a little to skiers right of the top of the route)
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Silent Running
P1 (5.5)
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P2 (5.8 )- Silent Running. Brendan takes the lead here. There is a healthy 20 foot run-out in the middle of this pitch. That, combined with a lengthy leader fall from the group ahead made this one a little head-y. Brendan tackled it in fine style though.
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P3 (5.9+)- A well-bolted crux pitch. Good thing too, because the granite was nearly featureless in a couple spots and the plentiful bolts were appreciated!
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Top of P5 (5.8 )
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Brendan finished up the 6th pitch (5.9+). We opted for a shorter day at the crag and skipped the final 5.10b gear pitch. It looked fun though!
Rappeling from the top of the sixth pitch.
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Thanks, Brendan, for checking out Darrington with me!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:06 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2010 7:36 pm
Posts: 142
I had an awesome time checking out these climbs with you Val! This made a great introduction to slab climbing, and I'm happy to say it doesn't scare the bejeezus out of me anymore! I even got to use my newfound skills at a couple of points today at index :)
And though the runouts at Darrington are scary in the moment, in retrospect I think they are indeed healthy as they certainly make the shorter runouts one often encounters much less scary (15'? pshh, thats nothing!)

Hopefully we can get out again soon!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 7:31 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2009 9:28 pm
Posts: 279
Looks fun!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 6:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 08, 2009 2:34 pm
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Location: Seattle
Nice work, Val and Brendan! Next up: Total Soul!!!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:45 pm 
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Raging Alpoholic
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Heather, Total Soul is coming up soon. I want to check out Dreamer too, though the approach to 3 'o clock rock is pretty sweet for a quick day.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 11:59 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 3:15 am
Posts: 129
Also consider a 6 pitch route on bolted slab named Westward Ho! which is just right of Blueberry Ridge 5.8 gear route on Exfoliation Dome.

And that last pitch of Silent Running is so totally sweet, if 5.10 is on your radar.

Dreamer on Green Giant Buttress is good too. Many used to have a hassle with the approach but with my loppers and nylon flagging tape I've made it far easier. There's a 2 pitch addition to Dreamer, it begins lower than the standard start and ups the ante to 5.10 but provides a safer opening to the lower pitches of Dreamer. There's quite a few routes on Green Giant Buttress and several others are to be recommended.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 10:13 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:43 pm
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Location: Seattle
Hey David, thanks for doing the work on Green Giant Buttress. I'm planning on heading up Dreamer this Sunday. Have any tip or things that would be good to know about revamped approach?


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