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The Climbing Club • View topic - Which rock shoes to get...

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:50 am 
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UW Climber

Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 9:05 pm
Posts: 23
It's time to get a new pair of rock shoes. While my old pair of La Sportiva Katana serves well for long days of moderate climbing, I was thinking that maybe it's time to get something for those hard bouldering problems at the gym. I was thinking of either

http://secondascent.com/climbing/rock-s ... -shoe.html
or
http://www.rei.com/product/809835/scarp ... rock-shoes

Any suggestions/comments?

Jochen


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:43 pm
Posts: 494
Location: Seattle
Unless you are bouldering V7 and leading 5.12, you'll want comfort more than a painfully aggressive toe box, which might make you hate life while you climb. Keep in mind that a climbing shoe won't make you a better climber. The possible exception is if you are at the top of the climbing game and a hair's difference is what you need to send some heinous route. Then you might want a very specific shoe that you can only stand to wear for 15 minutes before puking. With that in mind, I'd recommend getting an all around shoe that fits great and that you can have on your feet all day (after they stretch that is). Trad shoes are pretty great for that. Mythos are nice for a fit, but if you have sweaty feet I'd stay away. Your feet can roll inside the shoe like a greased pig after awhile. And beware the stretch in the Mythos! I've finally settled on Scarpa technos after going through many shoes. I can wear them all day, but they edge as well as the more aggressive sport shoes. Great for heal hooking since you can tighten down the heal. They are pricey, but it is worth it. If they fit you though...it's all very foot specific.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 1:29 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 29, 2012 2:26 am
Posts: 1
I'm new to climbing. But I reckon it requires a certain muscle power. That is why I've spent the last four months in gym.
Do you think I'm ready to climb the mountain? Or should I spend some more time working out?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 12:54 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:43 pm
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Location: Seattle
By "the mountain" I assume you mean Mt. Rainier? Hard to know if you would be without knowing the workout regime or your previous shape. But 4 months seems like enough. Experience also counts. It take a lot more energy to climb Rainier inefficiently (too fast, too heavy, etc.), than efficiently (slow, rest step, etc.). Also, I'd wait until weather conditions improve and slopes stabilize in late May or early June to go up. That is, if it is Rainier we are talking about.


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