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The Climbing Club • View topic - U-daho: City of Rocks

The Climbing Club

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 Post subject: U-daho: City of Rocks
PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 2:33 pm 
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Designated Gaper
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Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2004 9:07 pm
Posts: 502
Location: Over yonder
Jimmy the Kid is a walking epic: Dan P is the only one who can really appreciate this. On Sep 3th he departed for a Wyoming epic in the Tietons, Devils Tower, etc. By Sep 4th, he had lost his wallet and was on his way home. In the meantime, I had been working through Labor Day weekend in order to have a chunk of days off when the tourons weren't around. On the 6th Jim got a new driver's license and decided that since we both had time, we should head to the Sierras. By the next morning, we were on our way to Idaho instead. We had less than $50 cash combined and Jim still had no plastic, so dirtbag it was.

The plan was to hit the City of Rocks for a few days, then bomb up to the Sawtooth Rec Area to climb Elephant's Perch, the Finger of Fate, and maybe Warbonnet Peak. A cooling trend convinced us that we should do the alpine routes while it was still warm and then head to the desert instead. We made a quick stop at Boise State University to make copies from a guidebook in the library and then we were on our way. Quoth Jimmy "this could be epic....it's gonna be gooooooood."

The next morning we arrived in the Sawtooths (Sawteeth?) and found that a 20,000 acre fire was hotboxing the entire area so we continued on to the City of Rocks.

We hit the City in the afternoon and cranked (kinda) "Just Say No" (5.9) and for some reason "Raindance" (5.6).

The first full day was as windy as Celine Dion, but we still managed to play some frisbee and get a little climbing in. We simul-climbed the 4-5 pitch "Sinocranium" 5.8 on Steinfell's Dome and the 4 pitch "Theatre of Shadows" (5.7) on Jackson's Thumb. These were both sweet sport-friction climbs despite the heinous wind. That evening we went to Bumblie wall and climbed some 5.8, maybe "Too much fun."

That night the wind was brutal and we found some sweet bivy caves. I thought I had pulled a fast one on Jim by taking the more wind-protected cave until I awoke with snow falling on me and had to run to the Toyota. Jim woke up from the crappy cave (completely dry), looked around, and said, "Huh, looks like it spit a little bit last night."

Saturday morning I got my first trad lead on the 5.7 crack "Good times" on Window Rock. We then climbed "Destroy all planets" (10a), "Pocket rocket" (8or9?) and some other apparently unmemorable route. After a sweet nap, we headed to the Bread Loaves for "Carol's Crack" 5.8, some 10a route, and a 5.7 that might have been called "Teenage Adolescent"

Some awesome Seattle-guy named Doug and his girlfriend, J'em(?), invited us and some other dirtbags out of the cold and into their RV. Cheers and well wishes to them and their Deschutes brews.

Sunday we finished up on the Bloody Fingers Corridor with a fun 5.7 crack "Intruding Dike", some bolted 5.8, the jug-sling fun fest "Mystery Achievement" (5.7), a random toprope 9 0r 10a, and the short crack "Fred Rasmussen" 5.8. There was also an awesome 5.8 that I can't remember the name of....it may have had something to do with "crackers" or something. It featured a beatific undercling LB move that was fun beyond belief.

Overall the trip was righteous and we rolled back into Crater Lake monday. We rarely climbed a route rated higher than my rather modest height, but we played some awesome frisbee, drank some great beer, froze/burned our asses off, and had the world's best Thai noodle/teriyaki rice burritos. I recommend Idaho's Zonker stout if you get in the area. We also learned that burning sage is only moderately effective in covering-up 5 or 6 days worth of BO. We were too cheap to pay to enter the neighboring Castle Rocks state park. It is easy to bootleg in the City campsites because apparently rangers don't patrol at night. Late to bed, early to rise is the key to free camping.

Sorry for the rambling. I may come back and fill in names I've forgotten, add details, or embellish shamelessly.

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"It was high counsel that I once heard given to a young person, 'always do what you are afraid to do.'"
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 7:37 pm 
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ferous wolvineerian

Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 3:44 pm
Posts: 508
right on sounds, fun


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 10:34 am 
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Banana Nut
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Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2002 11:14 am
Posts: 695
Location: On a cosmic (canadian cowboy) trip
Sweet TR!
Way to survive a climbing trip with Jimmy the Kid. It's a rite of passage for all Crater Lake climbers.
(BTW, Dallas, those test tubes should be there in the next day or two, so your work timeline should be just fine.)

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