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The Climbing Club • View topic - Static Pt: Online 6/9/2013

The Climbing Club

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 7:14 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 08, 2009 2:34 pm
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Location: Seattle
Seems like there was a flurry of activity out at Static Point around 2009-2010 thanks to David Yount's bountiful trip reports on CC.com, but I haven't seen much posted anywhere since then. After a to climb at Static Pt in June 2010 with Lee, Lee returned a few weeks later to knock out a . Finally, the stars and a partner aligned for my own leisurely return visit.

Notes:
Used: double-rope setup, 4 quick draws, a couple of small TCUs, and a really calm mental state on those run-outs! Trail is way overgrown since a few years ago. Once you leave the main trail for the steep final approach, there are multiple new big downed trees. The webbing at the pitch 6 anchors is the original webbing that David placed there in 2010 and should be replaced. By the time we got there, I had already used some of my webbing elsewhere and did not have enough to do a full replacement.

Now some pictures:

Nature is quickly taking over the abandoned spur road that starts your hike:
Image

40 ft up and I clip the first bolt of On-Line. Whew!:
Image

My partner Jaga floats up pitch 1:
Image

Jaga dispenses with pitch 2 in fine style, clipping two bolts and slipping past the super hollow thin flake just below the anchors:
Image

I lead the 3rd pitch with its 3 meager bolts. Jaga floats up behind me:
Image

After a moment's pause, Jaga heads out climber's right from the belay, places a TCU under the roof/flake and dances up to the bolt above. One more bolt gets her to the anchors at the top of pitch 4:
Image

I take a short slip heading out after the 2nd bolt on pitch 5, but recompose myself and finish the pitch, praising my luck as I clip each of the 4 bolts! Jaga follows:
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Jaga finishes the short 6th pitch and we rappel. Here's a view looking up the crux fifth pitch as I rappel from the pitch 4 anchors:
Image

On the hike down the steep approach trail, I keep an eye out for the bathing pool mentioned in David Yount's TR with Lee. We find it!:
Image

We crash through the remaining brushy trail and pass many large piles of scat en route back to the car:
Image

Fun day! Did not see another person all day. Highly recommend it. If you go, find someone who knows the way or be prepared to spend some time finding the rock.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 1:18 pm 
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Nice! Slab is scary. Is the crux pitch well protected? Or are you looking at a long fall?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 3:15 pm 
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Awesome! I recently have become more interested in slab climbing, it just feels so improbable. But I agree with Jon, slab is scary, especially runout slab. Strong work!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 10:32 pm 
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Location: Seattle
Aye, run-out hard slab is scary. The bolts on the 5th pitch are closer than on any of the other pitches, but I wouldn't call it super "well-protected." You're still looking at ~10-15 ft between the second and third bolts, which is the crux bit. It was heady knowing that once you start up from the 2nd bolt, you can't back off without a gnarly slide on slab. There are chain bail links on both the 1st and 2nd bolts where other folks have lost nerve and backed off.

I haven't tried it myself, but I hear the key to falling on slab is to keep your center of mass (hips/torso) close to the rock and "slide" on your shoes and palms. If you let your weight fall too far back, you risk tripping backwards over your feet (because they may stick to the rock, like crampons on snow) and then you can fall backwards and slide on your back down the rock and really hurt yourself. I plan to take a few minutes to practice this technique on my next slab climb while I'm top-roped or close to the ground.


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