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The Climbing Club • View topic - The Crick Brah

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Mon Sep 16, 2019 6:22 pm

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 Post subject: The Crick Brah
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:24 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2010 8:01 pm
Posts: 115
Location: UW, Seattle
(Shamelessly stolen title from my friend)

The bones of the story are I met my freshman year room-mate (Ben) and his friend(Gideon), along with a friend of mine form Peace Corps (Anne) and her friend (Erica) in Indian Creek, UT for the world's best crack climbing.

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we were off to a grand start meeting up in moab and getting a couple beers ~7pm

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morning panorama

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first up- supercrack 5.10 perfect hands to wide hands. shown here is the tricky face move start.

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i pulled the baby roof, but the crux was really having the stamina to keep cupping those hands. i shamefully hang dogged my way to the chains.

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many, many fine cracks followed. Ben led the majority with his laser eye.
Gideon got his first 5.9 and 5.10 trad onsights (same day!), Ben got his first .11 onsight, and I got by first trad .10 onsight as well.

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this 5.9 offwidth (Way Nutter on Way Rambo Buttress) was a good test piece for me. some mandatory real offwidth moves plus plenty of breaks.

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if i learned one thing from that squamish video it's to drink after you climb the offwidth

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my paultry 5.9 ow lead inspired Ben to attempt the 5.11 ow "Big Guy" on Scarface Buttress.

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Big Guy is a monster with over 50ft of nothing but laser cut crack expanding ever so slowly from 4 to 6 inches... it didn't go clean and there were some moments of excitement. But Ben got to the chains and we all got a chance to TR it, and the taste the nausea a five inch crack can bring on.

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we moved camp beneath the shadow of castleton tower (the other side of Moab from IC) in an attempt to get up the .10c Jah Man route on the Sister Superior formation. We were shut down by sustained 30mph wind with gust around 45. The glasses were blown off my face on the approach (and recovered). Anyone have experience rapping in similar conditions? Is there a danger of the person rapping not weighing enough to pull the ropes straight down? Making it so they can't reach the next rap station? Either way no one wanted to belay or climb .10c in 30+mph winds.

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here's the whole crew. L to R: Gideon, Me, Anne, Erica, Erica's pooch, Ben "jammin" Janes

Gideon and Ben went on to crush for a few more days including topping out on Jah Man. I had to return to Washington early.

Indian Creek cannot be over-praised. If you're an aspiring crack-climber you must get down there.

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 Post subject: Re: The Crick Brah
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:35 pm 
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The Pub Czar
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Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 12:38 am
Posts: 698
Location: too far from a pint.

_________________
good judgment comes from experience;
experience comes from bad judgment.


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 Post subject: Re: The Crick Brah
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 8:58 am 
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Raging Alpoholic
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Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:15 pm
Posts: 812
Looks like a ton of fun. I like the final photo, setting up to get those lead shots is almost as fun as climbing sometimes! So, how do you climb a 50', 4-6" offwidth crack? Knee/elbow combo? I've survived on those so far, by just using face holds and laybacking short sections when it gets wide. I imagine that doesn't work here. Nice job!


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 Post subject: Re: The Crick Brah
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:37 am 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2010 8:01 pm
Posts: 115
Location: UW, Seattle
amit- ben took what he's wearing around his neck. basically all our big stuff (4s, 5s and a 6) plus an assortment of smaller cams for the approach to the wide part. There's about 25 ft of 5.6, then a 15 foot section of thin hand layback, then you get into fists and it gradually gets bigger. as ben got to the wide part he left all the small stuff he had left hanging from another cam.

val- fists to wide fists as long as you can. then hand stacks- hands back to back palms on the crack. This is remarkably secure, but you make slow progress. You move your feet up as high as possible doing whatever you can to make them stick, then slide your stacked hands up.
flat hand stacks- cupped hand stacks- hand to fist stacks- cupped hand to fist stacks- fist stacks- chicken wing or arm bar- to finally a no hands knee jam. from there more chicken wing and getting into squeeze chimney technique.

and on lead place your cams deep with long extensions so you can climb past without knocking them over.

alternatively to aid: pull up on big cam above you, bump up waist level cam and have belayer take. repeat to the chains. this gets scary when the cam you're moving is 30ft above the last one you left.

check out this steph davis piece

this website has good resources as well

the current issue of Climbing! has a feature on OW too.

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 Post subject: Re: The Crick Brah
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:50 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:34 am
Posts: 324
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Sweeeeeet! Great pictures and fun to read about!


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 Post subject: Re: The Crick Brah
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 2:34 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2009 9:28 pm
Posts: 279
Nice! From pictures I've seen, the cracks at Indian Creek always seem so mind-bogglingly straight and precise. Crazy.


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 Post subject: Re: The Crick Brah
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 5:47 pm 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Thu Oct 08, 2009 2:34 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Seattle
Awesome! One day I hope to be good enough to lead stuff like that! (Or I will just bring along some rope-gun friends to set me up a TR)


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 Post subject: Re: The Crick Brah
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 10:37 pm 
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Cap'n Wingspan
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 3:08 pm
Posts: 1045
Location: Wallingford


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 Post subject: Re: The Crick Brah
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:38 am 
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UW Climber

Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 3:15 am
Posts: 129
Yep! drink a beer after leading an offwidth !!!!!

Good style.


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