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The Climbing Club • View topic - 08/11/2011 shawangunks, ny

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 9:53 am 
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Cap'n Wingspan
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 3:08 pm
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Location: Wallingford


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:40 am 
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Raging Alpoholic
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Great TR! I want to head back to the Gunks too! We only were there for two climbs one afternoon (so $45 bucks for 3 of us seemed pretty steep), but it was totally worth it. There's so much climbing history there (plenty of which I'd be weary of clipping :wink: ). One perk about the entrance fee was that it included camping. I love the tenuous 5.3 traverse with two roofs. I totally hung on a 5.5 there.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 6:36 pm 
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UW Climber
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Those roofs look spicy! Way to get on some warm rock while on a meet-the-family trip. I've only gone on a trail run in the Gunks to date ... having an aunt live 5 minutes from the entrance will hopefully lead me back for some classic Gunks climbs.


Last edited by gracemarx on Tue Aug 16, 2011 9:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 7:00 am 
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experienced hiker of the climbing club
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Location: Bashing Brush
The classic story I used to hear from a friend who climbed in the Gunks was a time they were on a route and reading the beta:

Climber 1: "It says: Round roof (5.4)."
Climber 2: "WTF is a 5.4 roof?"

Looks like the Gunks truly do measure up to their reputation for sandbagged grades.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 4:38 pm 
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Posts: 129
The Gunks is sweetness! And also Rumney, Cannon, Cathedral, Whitehorse - each of them in New England as impressively great as the Gunks.

That first ring pin photo would be greatly aided as a piece of protection if you added a Yates Screamer! Those other two relics of iron are bomber.

5.2 Casa Emilio it's toward the far right end of the Trapps, but it's so fun! almost like alpine climbing. a slight challenge to find, as few venture this far right and the access trails from the road aren't as obvious

5.3 Beginners Delight - don't miss this, it's easily worth it
5.3 Yum Yum Yab Yum - a wild last pitch, and pure climbing enjoyment

5.4 Gelsa - A great intro climb to the Gunks, showcasing everything the Gunks has to offer in three pitches, with the second best third pitch (High Exposure having the best third pitch at the Gunks), great exposure, and classic Gunk's climbing.

5.4 Bunny - another great line up the rock that many avoid only 'cuz they're too macho for the name, but this littl' bunny is a classic!

5.5 Double Chin - Hidden behind a tree next to Nosedive this climb is often in the shade and is interesting and continuous. The last exit roof will make you think. It takes good gear.

5.5 Arch - perhaps my favorite at the grade at the Gunks. and i'll admit, i did crawl on hands and knees on that escape ledge off to the right. but by the third time I climbed the route I took the 5.8 / 5.9 fist crack thru the apogee of the arch. either way, you must do the last pitch of Wrist when doing Arch; uh maze zing fun!!!

5.5 Hawk - There are stories of visiting 5.9 leaders backing off this one. Great continual exposure, the moves aren't hard but not quite as secure as you would think at this grade. Routefinding isn't easy, keep looking for old fixed pins. Since the climbing itself is easy, you get to work on all your other Gunks skills.

5.5 Fingerlocks - A great beginner lead with a bit of crack moves thrown in. Perfect gear placements and provides toprope access to several other great routes.

....and those are just my solid gold favs 5.3 to 5.5 there are so many more in the moderate grades!!!!!!!!


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