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The Climbing Club • View topic - Tree-Stump Route link up

The Climbing Club

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 Post subject: Tree-Stump Route link up
PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 11:23 am 
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Duchess of Bearington
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 7:44 am
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Location: closer to josh, kris, and mel than craig
This past Wednesday, Carolina and I found ourselves with little obligations and good weather in Leavenworth, so we headed out for a day of climbing. I had been perusing the guidebook and found a 6-pitch linkup of two 5.6 routes, the Tree Route and the Stump Route. I had climbed the Stump last September and had nothing but good memories of it, so I was happy to repeat that portion of it, and excited to add more good climbing to it.

Neither of us brought cameras, which is a total shame. But fear not, I've done some artistic renditions of the day and routes. 

We leisurely left Seattle at 8am and found ourselves at the trailhead and ready to go at 11 am. We opted to rack up at the car and just bring one pack for the day, something we both later agreed was definitely a wise choice. Shockingly, the route finding was easy - the Stump Route is on lower 8-mile buttress, which is mostly visible from the road.

Within 20 mins of hiking, we were at the base of the climb. We had some minor route finding shenanigans on the first pitch, but once we figured it out, it turned out to be a fantastic pitch of climbing. After looking at some other reports, I found out that some parties opt to go through an open chimney, whereas others go up a blocky corner. I eventually opted for the more protectable blocky corner - it felt harder than 5.6, but was lots of fun. The next pitch was 5.wandering and ends at a very large belay ledge. I'm pretty sure this ledge was large enough to build a small house on. The third pitch on this climb I think was the best, or at least the most interesting. It begins with a corner and few nice crack systems. Once you get around the corner, you then head up a off-width, but low angle crack. My off-width skills can generously be described as, "unrefined," which certainly made the pitch exciting. Additionally, the crack did not take anything smaller than a #4. Thankfully I had one #4 and managed to walk it up a large portion of the pitch. What I did not manage to do was to climb this thing gracefully. I'm convinced that the low angle nature of the crack made it actually even more difficult. Getting a leg jam in meant that I had to not only cam my leg in to stop me from moving away from the rock, but also from not falling INTO the crack. I felt like the crack was going to eat my leg if I tried to jam. Thus, I ended up climbing this more as a slab with the crack for protection.

Here's a brief sketch of the Tree Route:
Image

And a close up of the O/W section (or at least my interpretation of it):
Image

At the top of the Tree route, we unroped and walked for another 10 minutes up to the base of the Stump route on middle 8-mile buttress. The climb was even better than I had remembered, though we ended up doing it in 4 pitches (I think we did this the last time too), instead of 3. The first pitch was probably my favorite, with lots of cracks, which offered both jugs and good jams. We stopped at a tree to belay and I led the next short pitch up to some chains. From the chains, you traverse out right to another tree and belay from there. The final pitch was exciting (for me), as it was the last time I climbed this. Both times I've lead this pitch, it's been mildy runout and find myself yarding on jugs to pull through a small roof. However, I might be crazy since Carolina told me that there is a much better, and more protectable way to do it, but I didn't see it. Regardless, I enjoyed the yarding and felt like I got in a piece where I really needed it the most.

We made it to the top of the Stump route around 5pm and walked off, up about 50 feet and then down to the right. The initial part of the descent is unpleasant, but not sketchy. Finally we found a well-trodden path through beautiful summer flowers and made quick time down to the car. We stuck our feet in the river and then headed home.

And another sketch of the Stump route:
Image

A great day out with a fantastic partner!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:01 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2010 6:23 pm
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I love the creative topos .. sounds like an awesome Wed!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:06 pm 
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The Pub Czar
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Location: too far from a pint.

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good judgment comes from experience;
experience comes from bad judgment.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 1:29 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:20 pm
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Location: seattle
i hope you always forget your camera. those were WAY better than any photos i've ever seen!!
cool.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 8:56 am 
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UW Climber
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Thanks for the awesome drawings!! Other features of note - from the massive belay ledge below the final pitch of tree route, look down the valley and you can see a spectacular massive bust of a woman reclining against the hillside.

Tree route offwidth was impressive, otherwise I much preferred Stump route. Maybe I've not climbed enough granite, but it seemed unusual to find 5.6 climbing that was occasionally steep and mostly well protected without being either a chimney or low angle slab. Awesome weathering features on Stump, big jugs, and fun laybacks. We only had one belay at a set of chains in all 7 pitches, otherwise it's trees and solid cracks for gear anchors (beta for the several aspiring trad leaders I've talked to in the club :) - good practice for building anchors)

Thanks for picking out some fun climbing, Ava! A great day out, and we didn't see another soul all day.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 10:14 am 
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Cap'n Wingspan
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Nice tr, love the 'topos'


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 2:26 pm 
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UW Climber
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Location: Edmonds WA
Cool trip report. Looks like something fun for the near future.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 4:19 pm 
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Raging Alpoholic
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I love the artist interpretations here. I also did the tree route quite some time ago, and I also had my leg eaten by that offwidth. I got really stuck about midpitch, didn't have a number 4 and spent quite a while figuring out my escape... It was a strange situation. Funny to hear that someone else had a similar experience!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 9:49 am 
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The Shepherd
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Location: Ravenna


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