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The Climbing Club • View topic - Clipping!!!

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Sun Aug 25, 2019 4:15 pm

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 Post subject: Clipping!!!
PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 7:17 pm 
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Cap'n Posthole
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Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:19 pm
Posts: 216
I got into an argument the other day with a buddy about the proper technique for clipping while on lead.

I think (and am pretty sure it is the common stance) that when you are at the stance you are going to clip you should grab a draw clip it to the bolt and then pull up slack and clip into the draw, being careful not to backclip or z-clip.

He on the other hand thinks that you should grab a draw clip it to the rope and then drag the draw with the rope clipped to the bolt and then clip the bolt. He also thinks that on an especially hard route you could have all of the draws on your harness pre-clipped into the rope to ease clipping.

Who is correct and who is crazy?


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 Post subject: Re: Clipping!!!
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 12:33 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 6:11 pm
Posts: 137


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 Post subject: Re: Clipping!!!
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 4:34 pm 
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Cap'n Wingspan
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 3:08 pm
Posts: 1045
Location: Wallingford
You are right, he is dead wrong. Nobody does it that way, and I could list a number of reasons why, but I won't even bother because it's so stupid.


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 Post subject: Re: Clipping!!!
PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 8:48 am 
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Longshanks
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:47 pm
Posts: 927
Location: Denver
What they said. I've had this experience when walking a cam up a crack when it is already clipped to the rope. The friction and weight of the rope make it quite difficult!


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 Post subject: Re: Clipping!!!
PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 10:47 am 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:43 pm
Posts: 494
Location: Seattle
Weird. How did he come to this conclusion about clipping?


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