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The Climbing Club • View topic - Ice Climbing at Mt. Baker

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Tue Oct 15, 2019 12:58 pm

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:09 am 
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Dr. Crevasse
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Joined: Sat Oct 05, 2002 11:17 am
Posts: 921
Location: Seattle
I am organizing the annual ice cragging trip for this weekend. I'm hoping that the rain and sun from the past couple of weeks will have melted some of the snow. At best we'll climb some ice (but I can't be 100% sure). If the ice isn't exposed, perhaps we can practice other skills. At worst it will be a scenic hike on Heliotrope Ridge with heavier packs (training for J-berg).

Who: All levels of experience are welcome. The only prerequisite is that you know how to belay. Experience on glaciers is a plus, but not required. The exact number of participants will depend on how many people sign up who have experience on ice, but I will cap the group size at twelve to comply with wilderness regulations.

Disclaimer: Ice climbing is dangerous activity. Due to the nature of ice and all of the sharp tools involved, there are more inherent risks than rock climbing. I and the other experienced members will help the newer climbers to travel on ice as safely as possible, but keep in mind that the risks cannot be completely eliminated. All participants are ultimately responsible for their own safety.

Where: Coleman Glacier, Mt. Baker (Approach beta: distance ~2.5 mi and 1800 ft of vertical gain; takes about 2 hrs to hike)

When: Saturday, November 7 (Snow or Shine)
Leave: 6 AM (be there at 5:50 AM) Burke Museum (for those driving cars to the Burke, we'll swing by the Park and Ride at 65th to drop off any extras)
Return: We will be returning to Seattle late (read after 10 PM). I'm going to recommend stopping for dinner at the . But this can be organized on a car by car basis

Required Gear: I reserve the right to send anyone home who shows up at the Burke unprepared (a lot of this can be borrowed from the IMA):
warm clothes (and extras especially if it's snowing)
helmet
harness
crampons (steel)
ice ax (or ice tools – I will bring all the club tools)
stiff boots - hiking boots are not sufficient. (The club has a small selection of boots or they can be rented from stores in Seattle)
food and water (hot drinks are nice to have)
sun block
sun glasses and/or goggles
dry clothes for the ride home
headlamp or flashlight

Optional Gear:
Climbing Rope
Ice screws
Gear to build anchors
Trekking poles (recommended)

If you’re coming post:
1. If you can drive and how many passengers you can take
2. Experience on glaciers and ice. Please also indicate if you know how to self arrest and if you know French technique (flat footing).
3. Climbing gear you can bring.

==========================================================================

_________________
"It's not safe out here. It's wondrous, with treasures to satiate desires both subtle and gross. But it's not for the timid." Q


Last edited by Jim Prager on Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:14 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:11 am 
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Dr. Crevasse
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Joined: Sat Oct 05, 2002 11:17 am
Posts: 921
Location: Seattle
1. I can drive and take me +3.
2. I can self arrest and use French technique. I have extensive experience traveling on glaciers. I have experience ice climbing, building top rope anchors, and leading to AI3.
3. I will be bringing 5 ice screws and gear for constructing top rope anchors.

_________________
"It's not safe out here. It's wondrous, with treasures to satiate desires both subtle and gross. But it's not for the timid." Q


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:27 am 
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The Shepherd
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Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2007 12:37 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Ravenna
1. I can drive and take another person if need be. I may have to leave a bit earlier than the group as well.

2. I can self arrest and use french technique. I have experience traveling on glaciers. I have some ice climbing experience and have lead to WI3.

3. I will bring 6 screws and my tools as well as gear for a top rope anchor. I also have a rope for top rope set up as well.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:29 am 
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Raging Alpoholic
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Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:15 pm
Posts: 812
I am going to try to make this. I just need to be back to seattle by 7-8pm. Anyone else need to be back earlier?

1. I can drive and take 3 more.
2. I have lots of experience on glaciers (self-arrest, french technique) and a little experience on ice.
3. I can bring 5 screws, tools and an assortment of gear for anchor building.

EDIT: Kris, want to carpool?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:17 am 
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giving spoon
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Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:32 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Daddy
I'd love to go, but we are heading out to Portland this weekend :cry:

Have fun on the ice folks.

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Somehow I find Nature knows how best to push the lazy human form from its comfortable life and knock him face down into the living of it.
-J. Hummel


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:21 am 
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Alpine Slogger
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:01 am
Posts: 826
Location: Too far from a summit
I will come.

I can drive, and take 3 others with gear.

I have some glacier experience, can self arrest, and french technique, and lead belay. I have not climbed ice before.

I have all necessary personal gear, no tools, screws etc.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:38 am 
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Cap'n Posthole
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Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:19 pm
Posts: 216
Sick! I'm more down than Judge Joe Brown!!

I can drive and take 3 more.
I can self arrest and have limited glacier travel.
I have crampons, axe, a rope, slings, cordlette and glacier gear.


Last edited by David Goulet on Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:46 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:40 am 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Thu Oct 01, 2009 12:43 pm
Posts: 302
I want to come! I have experience with glacier travel, self arrest, french technique, and vertical ice. I've actually never placed ice screw on lead though - my pure ice (ie not mixed) has been as a follower or just 'ice bouldering'. I don't know how winter grades translate well enough to know what I've climbed or led.

I do not have a car, and will gladly contribute gas money.
I can contribute a rope/slings, but no ice gear.

I do not have crampons/tools over here with me, I'll need to borrow from the club. Jim, if you're bringing the club gear do I need to head over to get spiky things myself?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:42 am 
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Dr. Crevasse
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Joined: Sat Oct 05, 2002 11:17 am
Posts: 921
Location: Seattle
I will bring the tools, but you need to have an ice ax and crampons.

_________________
"It's not safe out here. It's wondrous, with treasures to satiate desires both subtle and gross. But it's not for the timid." Q


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 11:27 am 
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receiving spoon
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Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 10:29 am
Posts: 327
I'd like to join the ice climbing fun! I remember seeing the coleman glacier from heliotrope ridge trail last summer and being pretty intrigued.

I own an ice axe and have limited experience self-arresting, but know how to do it. Haven't had to french technique before.

I'll be checking out some plastics, steel crampons, and tools from the HUB in a bit. Have a harness, belay gear (ATC), loop chain, and backup sling for rapping. Have rapped once before. Do have experience lead belaying with a grigri.

Other than that, I should be ready to swing some tools, while sporting my amazing glacier glasses with electrical tape side shields :)


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 11:43 am 
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Frodo
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Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:49 pm
Posts: 125
Location: The Shire
Ay!!!! i'M IN!!!!!

1. No car.
2. No experience.
3. I will rent gear this Thurs. Typical.

4. I promise to get more warm clothing. :D


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 11:46 am 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:34 pm
Posts: 404
Location: Edmonds WA
Yes!

1) I have a car and can drive 3
2) I can self arrest and have been on a few glaciers.
3) I have all personal gear, 2 ice screws and an 8.5 mm x 50 m half rope.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 12:01 pm 
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receiving spoon
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Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 10:29 am
Posts: 327
Actually, Jim, should I not check out any of the HUB tools, and let you take all of them?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 12:07 pm 
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Duchess of Bearington
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 7:44 am
Posts: 199
Location: closer to josh, kris, and mel than craig
Yeah, I can't pass this one up...

1. I can drive, though there is a light on in my car that makes me slightly nervous and am not sure if I'll have time to get it fixed before Saturday. The point is, I could drive, but it's probably better if I don't.

2. Don't have any experience ice climbing, but have lead belayed.

3. Will need to rent crampons from IMA (Lucas and Jim -- what's the best way to do this?) and rent boots from a store -- Jim do you have any suggestions on places to get them?

Thanks for organizing this!

EDIT: I'll also need to rent an ice axe from the IMA


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 12:25 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:34 am
Posts: 324
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
I have to work Saturday morning. :( I really want to try ice climbing sometime this season though!


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