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The Climbing Club • View topic - Bugaboos August 1-7, 2009

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 12:04 pm 
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Posts: 40
Made my 2nd trip to the Bugs with my steadfast climbing partner, Mark, and thought I'd post pictures.

http://picasaweb.google.com/rnlissa/August72009#

Minimal snow this last season, so things have REALLY melted out since I saw it in August 2 years ago. The Bugaboo Glacier and col crossing are a mess; lots of ice crevasses to cross, and a loose sandy/rocky scramble after trekking around the gigantic bergschrund. The descent is now a bolted rappel, to avoid tossing rocks down at your fellow climbers.

We were in for 6 days, and climbed 3 routes:
1) West face of Snowpatch: Furry Pink, Grade IV, 5.10c, 8 pitches
2) West face of Snowpatch: Kraus-McCarthy route; Grade IV, 5.8+, 8 pitches
3) West Buttress of South Howser Tower (Beckey-Chouinard Route; one of the "50 North American Classics"!!!). Grade V, 5.10, 15 pitches. +2500 feet of technical climbing, mostly sustained 5.8-5.9 strenuous crack

We had a few hot days of sunshine, and the usual p.m. thunderstorms on 2 days, one of which dumped rain and brought a magnificently beautiful and booming lightening array. It hailed and snowed toward the end of our long day on the Beckey-Choinard route, with a lot of static electricity up top during the rappel, which was pretty frightening.

Don't buy the Mountaineers book; it's terrible (minimal descriptions of routes, and not always quite accurate!) Buy the Canadian guide, for sure.

Go! It's beautiful.

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Lissa Wanserski


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 4:22 pm 
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nice!! and great to meet you. I hope your time off from working is fun and meaningful.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 12:20 pm 
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Dr. Crevasse
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Location: Seattle
Awesome! Sounds like an fun trip with wonderful climbing.

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"It's not safe out here. It's wondrous, with treasures to satiate desires both subtle and gross. But it's not for the timid." Q


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 9:53 am 
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You picked the right week. I was there the next and it rained, sleeted, snowed, and thundered almost every day. Now the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col is really a mess.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 4:51 pm 
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Cap'n Wingspan
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Spectacular


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 12:38 am 
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The 11th Essential
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Location: Boulder, CO
Beautiful!

edit: ...I now have a clear objective for why I should learn to climb cracks...


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 9:38 am 
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The Shepherd
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Location: Ravenna
Nice Pictures! Every time I see more I keep thinking I need to go there.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 7:51 pm 
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Incredible pictures, Lissa, and some nice climbs!! Great motivation to spend some quality time in the climbing gym this fall.


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