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 Post subject: Sweaty day at Index
PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:31 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2006 2:42 pm
Posts: 40
Location: U District
Headed out to Index early today with my buddy Ben (only my second time there) but unfortunately we still didn't beat the heat. After scoping the lower wall we headed for the upper wall and the Davis-Holland route.

We didn't hit the start until probably 7:30 to 8. I led the first pitch (which didn't climb all that much like the handcrack I'd imagined from the guidebook description). Ben followed quickly and took off on the second pitch, halfway up though he got gassed from the heat/humidity combo - it was easily in the upper 80s in the sun and mid 70s in the shade. He lowered off and I finished the lead, the climbing had interesting moves and was pretty enjoyable although it got a little spicy for the last 30 feet or so by which time I was sweating enough that the rock felt like exit 38 slime and the largest piece left on my rack was an orange tcu. After making it to the anchors we decided we'd had enough climbing in the sun and rapped off in search of climbing in the shade.

Feeling lazy, and having brought aiders and lots of extra gear along we decided it'd be a good day for me to learn aiding. Pencil Thin Mustache looked like a good candidate so without much ado I started up it. It turned out that my first piece - a blue tcu - would be the biggest piece on the pitch until partway through the roof. The rest of the gear was #1-5 BD nuts, #0-2 DMM nuts and a #4 brassie, getting into the second step to get gear into the roof, I managed to pull the #1 BD nut that I was on and the #4 brassie below it, lobbing about 10 feet onto a now fixed #.75 DMM nut. After that adrenaline rush Ben decided he was bored of belaying aid so I lowerd out and he finished the pitch. After getting through the crux bit getting into the roof (probably C2 or 2+) the rest of it was easy cam plugging C0. I found a nice comfy spot on my pack and almost fell asleep belaying him.

We almost called it a day after that but I'd been eyeing Dana's Arch all day and it was finally in the shade so I gave it a go but I ended up getting totally gassed and bailed off 2 bolts shy of the anchors. After that we realized that we'd both been up since 3:30 in the morning and dragged our asses back out to the car, took a quick dip in the river to cool off and headed home.


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