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The Climbing Club • View topic - Prime Rib (of Goat) - 6/23

The Climbing Club

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:46 am 
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experienced hiker of the climbing club
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Location: Bashing Brush
Where in the forums does an alpine sport route go?

Michelle and I climbed Prime Rib (of Goat) on Saturday in good conditions with a bit of company. For anyone unfamiliar with the route, it's an 11 pitch bolted climb on the Goat Wall in Mazama. The approach (heinous scree) might well be the crux of the route. Really can't recommend the route enough for folks getting in to multi-pitch climbing. The route is quite aesthetic, and most of the pitches go at about 5.8. The final pitch, which goes at 5.9 is definitely the hardest on the route (but not that hard) and the third to last pitch is a really fun 5.7 traverse where once you climb above the belay ledge sends you out with a few hundred feet of air sucking at your feet.

A lot of work clearly went in to setting up this route, with comfortable, scenic belays for nearly every pitch.

Gear notes: 60m rope, 14 quick draws. We teamed up with another party of two on the way down and sent the first person down the rappels with two other ropes to set up subsequent raps. This greatly sped up the descent. Don't recommend trying to do double rope raps. There are ample opportunities for the rope to pull things down or snag as it is. A knot wouldn't really improve the situation. Spoke with another couple who epic'd last year after the rope jammed on their first double rope rap.

Approach notes: 20 minutes of talus and scree hell. Wear closed toed shoes or boots. Tevas not suggested.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 12:32 pm 
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The Shepherd
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Location: Ravenna
Sounds like you guys had a great time(minus the approach of course). Did you take any pictures?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 3:36 pm 
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experienced hiker of the climbing club
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Two, neither really turned out. Still haven't mastered the fine art of taking pictures while belaying.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 7:07 pm 
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UW Climber
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its easy, just use your teeth to break off while you snap a few quick shots.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 8:36 pm 
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Designated Gaper
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Location: Over yonder
Steph has the photographer/belayer duality dialed in; maybe she would give you her secret. Notice how she captures the action so that it looks as if she is quite far from the actual rope and belay spot. Amazing!
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