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The Climbing Club • View topic - Leavenworth and Drier Points East, Apr. 12-13

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Sat Sep 21, 2019 3:23 pm

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2003 8:01 pm 
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An Old Geezer
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I enticed Dan to join me on a trip out to Leavenworth, promising a full two days of climbing on beautiful granite. We drove through the rain near Index Saturday morning but our spirits lifted when the sky got drier as we crossed the pass. We met up with Aaron and his girlfriend at the 8-Mile campground, where they had been harrassed by the fascist camp steward fellow for not paying the fee. The rain returned. We idled away the morning, eating breakfast (again) in der Stadt and playing human Jenga. Tempting fate, we drove out to Castle Rock, but wetness fell again from the sky as soon as we entered Tumwater Canyon. "We're not climbing in this shit," said we. The air to the east smelled drier, so we followed our noses through the ghostly-white orchards of Peshastin until we reached the fabled Pinnacles.

After our first pitch, the weird and unsatisfyingly short Tunnel Route, the last sprinkles faded away. The sun peeked out with increasing curiosity at our antics. Dan flailed up a godawful vertical sandbox for his turn at leading, then Aaron followed with much cursing while I took photos. Aaron's buddy had recommended Lightning Crack, so we headed there next. That single worthwhile pitch of the day was a full 60m of decent climbing. We rapped off the back after Dan retreated from an uninspiring anchor at the top of the formation. The last 20 feet to the top is not worth the trouble.

Image

One advantage of a sandstone climbing area: the trails are made of, well, sand. You can walk around barefoot comfortably.

Back at camp, we hadn't had enough, so Dan and I walked down the way to 8-Mile Buttress, where I led Classic Crack by headlamp. It was jamtastic. Dan cleaned and walked off in the dark. I almost called in the choppers when he wasn't back after a few minutes, but he had just taken the longer way around.

We talked around the campfire after dinner and agreed that we'd try for Outer Space tomorrow... if the weather looked good. Sometime during the night, the rain came down hard. We all slept in.

Dan and I headed to Frenchman's Coulee since the weather wasn't improving during breakfast. I still get amazed at the climate change as I make the drive eastward. We arrived to full porta-potties at the packed parking lot. Somehow we got right on Party in Your Pants, narrowly eluding the crowds. Next we did George and Martha, then Seven Virgins and a Mule. Fun fun fun. I dropped my ATC into a crack between columns at the top while getting ready to rappel, so we spent quite a while trying to get it out. I finally succeeded using my nut tool on a bight of rope. My arms were scraped pink from digging around in the narrow crack.

Dan tried Mr. Clean, a thin, hard finger crack with a scary approach (step over a cleft between columns and belay with your back to a huge chunk of teetering basalt held in place by some loophole in the gravitational laws).

We then did our good deeds for the day: I trundled a big piece of loose rock from near Mr. Clean and Dan led Steel Pulse to retrieve a quickdraw for another party, who gave us extensive unnecessary beta on how to belay the pitch and get to the first bolt. Stuck-Quickdraw Guy gave Dan a sandwich for his trouble.

The sun was setting, so we hiked back to the car and had a beer. Dinner was at the Bar 14 in Ellensburg. Good times.


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 Post subject: Cool
PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2003 7:17 am 
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The Fleb
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Hey, I was at Vantage last Sunday too, with Wayne and Erik from cc.com. We climbed at Sunshine and M&M. Was an awesome day! Best route was Cold Cut Combo, that has to be one of the finer things I have clawed my way up.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2003 9:46 am 
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Banana Nut
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Location: On a cosmic (canadian cowboy) trip
Funny how when I was living in Vancouver, Leavenworth was considered "eastside", and it could be raining in Van but would usually be dry in Tumwater. And now that I'm closer, the "weekend trip to Leavenworth" resulted in a half-day at Peshastin and a half-day at Frenchman's!
Well, there'll be other times, and it was a good salvage of an otherwise washed-out trip.

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To know that you know what you know, and that you do not know what you do not know, that is true knowledge. - Confucius


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2003 11:17 am 
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An Old Geezer
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The more I think about it, the less like Jenga it seems to be. Aaron had a bunch of 4x4s cut to equal lengths. You stack them up in different configurations, like in a T shape, or an upside-down U, or just stand a single 4x4 on end. Use a flat, hard surface to stand them up on -- dirt or other malleable, soft material is cheating. The object of the game is to stand up on the stacked blocks and balance yourself. There are infinite variations to the game, and it would be very interesting if played drunk. :twisted:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2003 2:24 pm 
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That goat computes better than me!
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Location: UW


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