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The Climbing Club • View topic - Index 9/30

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Mon Oct 14, 2019 7:26 am

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 Post subject: Index 9/30
PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 12:04 pm 
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An Old Geezer
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J. Stern, Boyd, Dug, and I climbed some great pitches at Index last Saturday. We ran into Stephanie and Dallas at the Sultan Bakery, Mike Schmitt and Yuko in the parking lot, and later caught a brief glimpse of Scott and Eric as they rushed off down the trail to "log some air time".

It was Dug's first day crack climbing, so we schooled him good, starting off in the Toxic Shock area and then moving on to the GNS. He struggled mightily and made his way up cracks of all sizes that day, stumbling back to the car sore and happy. This proves that with a little tape, a little fitness, and hard work, you can make a great day of it at Index without any prior crack-climbing experience.

Josh returned to non-supervised climbing after several weeks of his self-rescue course and got his lead head back. At the end of the day, he and Dug did GNS while Boyd and I climbed Roger's Corner/Breakfast of Champions.

Boyd bled all over several routes, as we have come to expect. He went for it on Toxic Shock, his hardest lead to date, and tested my yellow Alien once or twice. What a great pitch that is! Toxic Shock is drier than when I was there last and there was no one else there, despite the parking lot being packed with cars.

We set a TR on Even Steven and I finally got up it without falling. My fingers were all numb at the top and I still need to come back and lead it. The first part would be the hardest for me, I think, because you have to commit to a hard lieback protected by small cams (maybe a nut?) that I'm not quite sure will keep you from hitting the pillar. Above that, you get a couple good rests and the gear looks great.

All in all, a great day with fun partners.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 12:44 pm 
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An Old Geezer
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Ah, you must have been the orange helmets we saw on Tadpole. Is Marginal Karma the crack just right of BoC?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 12:48 pm 
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experienced hiker of the climbing club
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Location: Bashing Brush
Michelle and I headed out to x38 on Saturday but didn't climb much. Got a late start, missed the turn off for Interstate Park, and ended up all the way at Winter Block. Climbed the 5.9 (fun) and the 10c (fun - other than the thorn bush in your face halfway up) and then headed down in fading daylight. Hoping to get back there one more time before it all gets too wet to climb.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 10:34 am 
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ferous wolvineerian

Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 3:44 pm
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How is the camera doing Mike? Any photos?


Last edited by Eric Gratz on Tue Dec 16, 2008 3:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 10:52 am 
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An Old Geezer
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No, I just got all new gear after I had to leave almost my entire rack bailing off of my proj on The Tooth in a freak snowstorm. Luckily, I'm sponsored by 11/16" Webbing Co. and got hooked up with some of their prototype Tied Runnerz.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 7:42 pm 
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ferous wolvineerian

Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 3:44 pm
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Last edited by Eric Gratz on Tue Dec 16, 2008 3:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 10:01 pm 
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Sissy Boy

Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 2:24 pm
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Location: Washington

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I left my finger nail on El Cap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 11:45 pm 
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Sissy Boy

Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 2:24 pm
Posts: 146
Location: Washington
Actually the part I didn't want to lead appeared to be some pretty serious run out friction slab covered in thick black lichen. The moves I was resting at had a 3/8" protecting a 10a move then about 20 feet of friction climbing to a manky looking 1/4"bolt...that protects a 5.9+ friction move...sorry for wussing out eric, but I don't need to get hurt before going to Thailand, I have underaged hookers to be in shape for!

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 12:43 am 
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An Old Geezer
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Couldn't find the trail to Static Point? Park, walk straight ahead, turn left at the huge cairn on an old culvert. You guys must be spoiled from too much easy-access craggin'. :wink:

Nice photos, Mike. Here's Doug's shot of Toxic Shock, with Boyd sketching out on lead:

Image

Scott, I believe you pay those hookers to do all the work. A broken ankle might even get you a sympathy discount.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 11:02 am 
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ferous wolvineerian

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 12:07 pm 
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ferous wolvineerian

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 12:09 pm 
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UW Climber
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 1:30 pm 
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Sissy Boy

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