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The Climbing Club • View topic - Southwest climbing and exploring

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 1:18 pm 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 9:42 am
Posts: 72
Location: the ford
Since this trip was in California, Nevada and Utah, I posted in this forum.

I took a few vacation days stacked against Thanksgiving to visit a friend in LA and travel solo around the SW a bit. I focused on leading trad climbs and finally placing my own gear since I’ve been placing Matt’s and Ralph’s gear this past summer and fall.

Climbing
2 glorious days in Joshua Tree – climbed a bunch of routes in various areas of the Park:
Trashcan Rock: Right Sawdust Crack (5.8 ), Cranny (5.8 )
Real Hidden Valley – Hands Off (5.8 ), Tax Man (5.10 a TR) then lead, Mr. Misty Kiss (5.8 ), Tumbling Rainbow(5.9 ), Toe Jam (5.7), Hands Off (again!)

Tax Man, Hands Off, Tumbling Rainbow were particularly memorable. I didn’t tape up for the cracks but did experience some pretty painful jamming from time to time. I’d recommend taping.

2.5 days at Red Rocks
The first day, I joined some fellows for bouldering in Calico Basin. Was doing fine until I topped out on a boulder problem without looking for a walk off first. After realizing that no walk off existed and the down climb looked sketchy, I ended up jumping from the rock to another lower rock which resulted in bruising my heal. After keeping my foot up for the most of the day, I found I could walk on it more or less and that climbing was fine (as I didn’t have to put direct pressure on my heal).

So the next day I climbed Ballantine Blast (5.8 – Black Velvet Canyon – 5 pitches) and finished the day at Moderate Mecca in Calico Basin climbing single pitch routes: Valentine’s Day (5.8 ), TR’d Ace of Hearts (5.10 +), and Muckraker (5.8 ).

Next morning, we climbed Dark Shadows – (5.8 – Pine Creek – 4 pitches). This route is super classic and was the best climb of the trip. Solid exposure, sustained climbing, and beautiful long leads made this hands down the best climb of the trip! I highly recommend it.

Note – found climbing partners on climbingredrocks.com

Travels
Drove from Joshua Tree up through Mojave Desert Preserve and then up through Death Valley to eventually get to Sin City. Mojave Desert Preserve was almost empty of people and the backdrop of the seemingly endless desert mountain ranges was impressive. Death Valley was even more impressive and the trip wouldn’t be complete without a stroll on the salt flats of Badwater (the lowest point in North America). After climbing at Red Rocks, I headed up to Zion for a great day of exploring, eyeing routes and hiking Angels Landing.

The SW is spectacular this time of year!

Photos:



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 7:01 pm 
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Alpine Bod
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Location: Los Americanos


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 11:43 pm 
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Alpine Bod
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 1:31 pm
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Location: Los Americanos
Since no post is complete without a photo at some point

Image
Ben Kunz chuckles as he considers escaping Microsoft only to later realize this would be a grave mistake while RKB ponders the hard pounding ahead


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 11:35 am 
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An Old Geezer
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The desert sure is purdy. Where are all the action shots, though? Is the obvious chimney the one you climbed before jumping to your doom?

Jon: I filed that photo away for posterity, thanks. Brotherhood of the rope 'n stuff.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 12:24 pm 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 9:42 am
Posts: 72
Location: the ford
To answer both Ralph and Mike - sorry no action shots as I only have my dSLR and I rarely climb with it on pure rock climbs.

Mike, my rope was also wet as can be after the climb, but in my case it was my last climb of the trip and I was so stoked after getting off Dark Shadows! There are some sweet variations on Dark Shadows that add some 5.10 moves to it that I want to get back and do.


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