The Climbing Club

Easy Index (other than GNS!) 6/27
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Author:  Jerry Drescher [ Mon Jul 20, 2015 12:47 am ]
Post subject:  Easy Index (other than GNS!) 6/27

After the mandatory trip up GNS, I avoided Index for a long time because of its reputation for stiff climbing. But it turns out there's plenty of potential for the beginning leader if you know where to look. My friend Jon and I headed up on June 27th and had a nice day on some moderate, well-protected granite.

All these climbs will protect well with singles of 0.4 and 0.5, and doubles to 3. Bring some extra green and red to really sew it up. Mountainproject has plenty of beta on how to find everything.

We started on Senior Citizens in Space (5.7+ish). You can place a purple cam on your right, and a nut on your left before moving onto the ledge. Great pro and all placements except one are from great rests. Uncommonly fun moves for the grade! Extra greens really sew it up if you've got 'em.

Next we moved to the first pitch of Aires (5.8 ). Great hand jams lead to a rest where you can plug in all the gear you want. Next move is a cruxy pull on fist jams (feels hard for the grade), but you can protect it really well.

From here we moved on to Saber Crack (5.7). Balancy traversing a diagonal section of crack, then exit on easy hands. From here, traverse left to a large horn, and then go up an open-book feature (5.0?) and build a gear anchor.

Pisces (5.6) - the money pitch! Splitter hand crack to a bolted rap anchor. After the rap anchor you can continue up on slabby but well-protected moves to another set of chains, or just head down from here.

We finished up with Corner Flash (5.7). You can use a number four if you have it, but it still protects well with double twos and threes. Good hand jams lead to a fists crux (but easier than Aires). I bypassed the wide part of the crack on easy features to the right.

All in all, a great day! No need to drive to Leavenworth just because you're not a trad hardman/woman.

Author:  Chris Bassett [ Wed Jul 22, 2015 6:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Easy Index (other than GNS!) 6/27

That's great stuff around that grade at Index. Quick clarifying question about "Saber Crack." Are you referring to the diagonal crack just above the fist crack? If so, I believe you are referring to "Sickle Crack." It's fun but that 5.8 dihedral/finger crack in the corner is better and not much harder. Also, the alternate pitch to Aires, an intimidating undercling traverse, is not to difficult. Just place a nice Red C4 from a good stance and run it out around the corner. I'd highly recommend heading back and taking those alternative pitches.

Author:  Chris Bassett [ Wed Aug 19, 2015 9:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Easy Index (other than GNS!) 6/27

I just wanted to toss out a few more moderates up near Toxic Shock (Inner Walls).

Not sure of the name: Twin (hand/fist) cracks just around the corner from the start of Toxic Shock. 5.8 with good gear.

Special K: Awesome liebacking in the 5.7-5.8 range. Looks intimidating from below but all gear can be placed from great stances. Great fingers to surmount the bulge above the traverse at the top.

Someone recently cleaned up the Missing Bottle Buttress (Thanks!). To get there take the right on the trail where it crosses the creek when you are almost to the Inner Walls.

Who Put the Prrr In My Pussy: From the bottom you can see a spot with two aretes on the south face just to the right of the bolts. Climb that to the top. It goes at 5.8 and is great climbing. You can chicken wing the offwidth at the top (need #5 to protect) or I've heard you can lieback on something in the back. Either way, it's great. It looks like it will only take big gear from below but there's plenty of gear is normal sizes. That said, you can place 4" and 5" cams pretty easily.

Happy Puppy: Not sure I'd call this a moderate but I thought it was great. I thought it went at 5.9 my ass, but I'm not good at the wide climbing. That said, it's awesome and I made it up. That means it can't be much harder than 5.9. Mountainproject says hand crack. It's not even close. The bottom half of the squeeze chimney won't protect with anything less than 4" (note, you don't need to jam this part). This climb has it all, great liebacks, a chimney, and a constricting crack going from 4+" hands. It starts with the obvious lieback around the corner (climbers right) from Who Put the Prr In My Pussy. No gear smaller than 0.5" is required. Doubles in 2" or 3" and a 4" should be sufficient.

Author:  Jerry Drescher [ Fri Aug 21, 2015 1:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Easy Index (other than GNS!) 6/27

Yup, I did mean Sickle Crack. In retrospect, I'd recommend the finger corner over Sickle Crack as well.

The twin cracks you're referring to are the beginning of Even Stevens. Bring two #3's for that one!

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