|The Climbing Club
|Peshastin and Leavenworth 5/26
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|Author:||Nathan Johnson [ Mon May 27, 2013 5:15 pm ]|
|Post subject:||Peshastin and Leavenworth 5/26|
Wow it was popular on Sunday! People on all the "popular" climbs listed in the guidebook. Lines for the climbs!
Two things to report:
1. rattlesnake encounter at base of "Lightening Crack" first pitch. He was hanging out in the shattered sandstone on the ground.
2. "Lichen Delight" on Austrian Slab has been retrobolted with a bunch of bolts added. It's now a very reasonably protected 5.9. Very fun too- seemed like 5.9 cruxes at just about every bolt. some lichen but not bad. You could potentially lead a semi-scary traverse over to set up a TR on Slender Thread or Fakin It, both notoriously run-out leads.
Otherwise climbing was fun. Ticked off Diagonal Direct on Martian and West Face on Grand Central. West Face was OK, though I'd give Lichen Delight more stars, Diagonal Direct was fun, with some run-outs.
Anyone ever climb Shady Lane? It's a provocative crack line to the left of West Face. I wanted to climb it, just couldn't commit to the no-pro, 5.9- feeling entry moves to get into the crack and place some gear.
Little Bridge Creek Rock has two good crack climbs near the road for the aspiring 5.10 leader. Arms Control, 5.10a, is a thin hand testpiece below the roof, with fun moves around the roof and above (reach for hidden holds!). Dishonorable Discharge, 5.10b, starts at steep thin hands, has a crux arm-bar, hand-jam, terrible feet, grunt-fest, offwidth crux getting into a flaring pod (good rest inside the pod).
Dishonorable Discharge- Laura disappearing into the pod (she's at the same point I am in the first picture, just a different angle)
Angry Peshastin Marmot guarding the entry to Lightening Crack
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