The Climbing Club

Leavenworth gives the stoke 4/27 to 4/29
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Author:  Nathan Johnson [ Mon Apr 29, 2013 6:52 pm ]
Post subject:  Leavenworth gives the stoke 4/27 to 4/29

Laura and I headed to the icicle for a long weekend of climbing.
Mixed sunshine and blustery conditions with a bit of drizzle, and snow Monday morning greated us.

Warmed up with Laura's lead of XY cracks (Y-variation) 5.7. I got the onsight of the neighboring short .10a sport route.
Then headed up the hill a couple minutes to JY crag where I lead the stellar Janitors of Justice (5.8+), and then pulled off the onsight of Armed Forces Crack, 5.10b, my first onsight at that grade! Though honestly it felt like runout 5.9 friction at the supposed .10b crux bit.

Next morning we warmed up at Alphabet Rock on Dogleg Crack (5.8+) which everone there agreed was not deserving of the three stars in the Kramar guidebook. I then lead up Meatgrinder (5.10a) hand-fist crack with lots of opportunities to tear up your forearms and a crux hand-fist roof. Bouyed by Saturday's .10b onsight I decided to try the .10+ variation to Meatgrinder... and I got my butt kicked!!! Finger-locks with terrible feet lead into shallow no 1 cam with also bad feet, into more fingers and sidepulls with still no feet! I aided through it and back for a second lead of the top half of Meatgrinder.

That was all the climbing we really did, a combination of dodgy weather and super-runout licheny routes (Domestic Bliss 5.10b) shut down the rest of the afternoon Sunday.

Monday we woke to snow, headed out to Peshastin to discover it was wicked windy, and finally drove home via a very snowy Snoqualmie pass.

All this climbing's got me dreaming of summer adventures: Mary Jane Dihedral (Snow Creek Wall), another attempt at Rebel Yell (Wa Pass), something on Prussik?

Have fun out there!

Author:  Sarah Shimer [ Tue Apr 30, 2013 9:59 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Leavenworth gives the stoke 4/27 to 4/29

Nice! I was out there also this weekend with my sister, Katie, Neil, Robert, and met up with Kristy and Courtney. We climbed just about everything at Playground Point on Saturday. Katie rocked her first outdoor rock, and Neil got his first sport lead in! Sunday we headed to Surf City and Trundle Dome, accompanied by local Matt. Highlight for me was leading Flake Fest (AHHHHHH). Good times. Windy and dirty Saturday. Sunny and gorgeous Sunday.

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