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The Climbing Club • View topic - Vantage- Middle East Wall 6/10/12

The Climbing Club

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 10:28 am 
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Raging Alpoholic
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Just a quick TR from Vantage. Nathan Johnson, Ian Zemke, Paul, Keith and Nate and I checked out Middle East Wall at Vantage on Sunday. It has a good concentration of moderate trad climbs (5.8-5.11, mostly 9’s and 10a’s) and has been reported to be of better quality than Sunshine wall for trad. This was my first visit to Middle East Wall and I was not disappointed. I thought that the crack climbing here was in fact better than most of Sunshine Wall with good parallel sided cracks and often better gear. The face climbing was often more loose than Sunshine wall, so helmets advised! The other advantage for later in the spring season is that this wall stays shaded for the majority of the day and has fewer crowds.

While pouring over my guidebook and made a sweet tick-list for the day. All of these climbs end at chain anchors for speed. There are more that top out on the Mesa, but we skipped these to maximize climbing time for a one day trip. We managed to get through all the ones in red:

Lead Slim and Curvy, 5.10b***
Lead Human Sacrifice, 5.10c****
Lead Jihad (If one of us can!), 5.11a****
TR Molotov Cocktail, 5.11b*** -Looked at this after Jihad, but it didn’t look inviting, or climbed much.
TR Appo's last Revenge (not sure if this is possible?), 5.11a**
Lead Left Out, 5.9**
Lead Savage Heart, 5.10b***
Lead Sex Party, 5.10a***
TR Lingerie, 5.11d****
Lead 272, 5.8 offwidth**
TR The Elders (cams walk here), 5.10a** -Nate did lead this as his “warm-up”. It did in fact have funky gear.
Lead Theresea's Lingerie 5.9** -Very fun, worth more than two stars!

Lead Gotta be Smokin', 5.10a**
TR Electric Shock, 5.10d***

Anyway, this place is absolutely worth a day or two.

Nathan also put up a no-star bonus climb that was actually quite fun (to follow anyway). The climb was a mix of two or three routes. It started on the left side of the detached pillar (5.9), then chimneyed up directly behind the pillar, eventually ending at the right-hand side of the pillar (5.8 ). Finally an airy traverse needs to be made (with marginal pro) to gain the chain anchors of Savage Heart (just to the right of the detached pillar).

Paul projects Human Sacrifice (there’s a pretty exciting move in the middle….)


Ian on Sex Party.




Nathan leads Jihad


Ian works out the moves on Lingerie


Nathan leads 272


Nathan’s chimney adventure starts to climbers left of this detached pillar and ends on climber’s right at the Savage Heart anchors.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 11:04 am 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Thu Oct 08, 2009 2:34 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Seattle
Val, looks awesome! How would you compare the rock quality and grade rating at the middle east wall with what we climbed at the Bend last weekend?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 2:44 pm 
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Raging Alpoholic
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The grades are still Vantage grades, so are a little easier than Tieton. In general, I think that we could get easier cam placements at Vantage (these cracks are very parallel!). Rock quality was also still very Vantage-like (and actually a little less trustworthy than even Sunshine Wall, because it is less climbed). I trusted the cracks just fine, but the face holds would occasionally break.

You and Dave should check it out!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 7:00 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:13 pm
Posts: 31
Thanks for the trip report, Val!


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