The Climbing Club

Leavenworth 5/26-5/28- new climb?
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Author:  Nathan Johnson [ Tue May 29, 2012 5:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Leavenworth 5/26-5/28- new climb?

a terrible hangover killed my climbing ambition saturday morning. made it to l-worth by 830 (pm). led classic, and then twin cracks in the dark... with a headlamp.

sunday climbed a couple OK routes at Bear Cave (Tumwater)- one 5.9 with a fun airy opening traverse to a hand-crack bulge.
Decided not to climb Power Tower cause it didn't look too cool.

Onsighted an undocumented or new 35-40 foot hand crack traverse on a short wall that is easily seen from the approach to Bear Cave (right off the trail). Gear to 4 (you can place a BD no 5, but dont need it). You can anchor on a tree set back from the top for the second to follow and clean. I don't recommend trying to set a TR on this or trying to clean on rappel. I'd say it's a 5.9- harder than Classic crack or twin crack (5.8s), about the same as Deception (5.9), and easier than Angel (5.10a), it's sustained 5.9 though. And it's dirty and mossy, but not too bad. Someone else hop on it and tell me what you think! It is definitely a walk, and not really worth it unless you're going to climb something else up there too.

Sunday night taught a bit of gear placement to friends at mountaineers dome.

Monday morning put on a show at Carnival Crack. I made the approach climb, and about 3 inches of progress on lead up the real thing (5.10d overhanging offwidth) before falling on my new (used) big bros. Subsequently set up a toprope and couldn't even hang-dog my way up it. I don't know if I'll ever be strong enough to lead or even TR that thing cleanly.

There was some more education at mountaineers dome monday afternoon- I've gotten at least one person to see the light, and start talking about an "awesome handjam." Notice the adjective,"awesome" not "painful".

Author:  Sarah Shimer [ Tue May 29, 2012 8:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Leavenworth 5/26-5/28- new climb?

Sounds like a good weekend. Using "awesome" and "hand jam" in the same sentence is always exciting progress. :)
I'm pretty impressed by your alpine start, too. ;)

Author:  David Yount [ Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Leavenworth 5/26-5/28- new climb?

Big Bros RULE!!!!!!

well, at least the #3 and #4 and #5

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