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The Climbing Club • View topic - Leavenworth 5/5-6/12

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 Post subject: Leavenworth 5/5-6/12
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 11:40 am 
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Raging Alpoholic
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Posts: 812
Ian Z, Jochen, Coop and I got it some trad/crack climbing practice in Leavenworth this weekend. We started near Trundle dome on the short, but enjoyable crack, “Paydirt” (5.7). From there, we continued up the hill to Trundle Dome proper. I put up the 5.8+ “Flake Fest” and we all took multiple laps on this. From here we could TR “Feet Fest” (5.11c). I’ve been up here before and have completely ignored Feet Fest; it looks so blank! But we all agreed that it was very fun. Once you get up to the blank wall, you start to see delicate little crimps, and find that there is a specific sequence to follow up this seemingly blank face. I had a look at April Mayhem, but it had green ooze running down the face below the first bolt. Next we moved on to Ski Tracks Crack (5.9). I tried this last year and wanted to come back and get it clean. After just clinging to 5.11c slab, 5.9 crack felt so good. From Ski Tracks, I tried to find Sam Hill, but the trail up there is nearly gone, so we found ourselves at “Don’t Forget Arete” instead where Jim and Melissa were just finishing up Melissa’s first 5.9 lead, nice! In retrospect, for Sam Hill, we should have stayed in the drainage directly above Ski Tracks. That area is a little hard to navigate and the trails don’t seem to match up with the book anymore. It sounds like Kris and Mel also had some trouble navigating here as we failed to meet up.

Paydirt


Flake Fest


Feet Fest


On our walk down, Coop stopped by Fridge Boulder and found a group working on his project V4 there. After a couple tries, he got his first outdoor V4!

Deer hang out by the boulder


While Coop climbs his V4 project


We joined the rest of the climbers/rafters in the Barneys Rubble lot for dinner and a campfire. The no camping sign is gone and it looks like this is the new hangout until the gate past Bridge Creek campground opens up. We found Craig here after he finished a hike along Icicle ridge. Talk around the fire was dominated by excitement over the coming arrival of the supermoon. Funny thing is, we’re pretty sure that the supermoon never rose above the steep hillsides that surround Icicle Canyon. Coop saw someone oddly familiar sitting around the campfire, it was his friend Brian who was supposed to be in Thailand. Brian had cut his trip short do to an overuse injury from the steep walls in Thailand, caught a plane back to Seattle and drove straight to Leavenworth that same day for some “rest”. It turns out that rest for him was soloing 5.8 cracks and leading 5.10+ trad. We found ourselves a rope-gun.

The next morning we started out on the 5.6 warmup at Barney’s rubble. Yesterday had some crack practice for Ian and Jochen, today they’d need tape gloves and would get into some real cracks. We spent the rest of the day at Alphabet Wall. I went back for a clean lead of Dogleg Crack (5.8+), Coop led up Hindquarters (5.10a sport) and Brian went to work on putting up Z-crack (5.10c) and Meat Grinder (5.10a). Meat Grinder is something that I want to lead soon, so I took a couple of laps on this working out the moves at the crux and trying to figure out a way to place gear mid-thrutch (I think that I have a plan now…). Jason K and Brenden joined us later and Jason had a nice lead of Dogleg too. Brian and Coop finished the day on a crazy looking mixed climb called St. Vitus’ Dance (5.10d). This thing goes under a huge featured roof.

Rope gun, fresh out of Thailand


Barney’s Rubble 5.6 warm-up


Jochen practicing his jams


Jason onsites Dogleg




Crazy roof climb


Fun weekend! Thanks for coming out to climb guys!


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 Post subject: Re: Leavenworth 5/5-6/12
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 10:56 am 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 1:27 pm
Posts: 11
Thanks for the pics and organizing a great weekend Val! Let's do it again soon!


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