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careno crag- when you leave the ground without a plan
http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=6869
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Author:  Nathan Johnson [ Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:00 pm ]
Post subject:  careno crag- when you leave the ground without a plan

careno is a 4 pitch or so buttress just behind all the dirtbike jumps along icicle creek.
it is home to some ledges bigger than a USFS campsite at 8-mile.
in the full sun at 11am we left the guidebook and water on the ground planning to climb a mix of some different multipitch routes to the top.
started up p1 of careno corners. a tricky 5.9 move off the deck gains a sporty bolted slab.
from there we went left of a big roof and up some fourth class terrain to a huge grassy ledge with an 8inch tapering crack that gets down to hand jams- 5.9. from the next enormous ledge we traversed right to the 3rd pitch of "regular route". supposedly a 5.8 double crack, but i got so focused on the thin-hand to finger corner crack i didn't even see the 2nd crack let alone use it! only when my friend arrived at the belay station did i learn i missed the 5.8 climbing.
this belay station was about halfway up the 3rd pitch of "regular route" but again there was another enormous ledge, so i stopped. above was something easy (can't remember what) that led to... you guessed it... another grassy ledge. here i didn't know what to do- the climbing got steep and there was a funky corner with plants growing out of it (actually the continuation of "regular route"). dirty, easy-looking climbing wasn't what i had in mind. i scrambled a bit right and into a flaring finger crack on a 60 degree slab... turns out to be the top of "lone soldier" 5.11b... i got purple camelot in 8 feet up off a ledge and saw another placement another 5 ft higher. to get there i headed out right onto unknown slabby BS. tenuous climbing got me above the potential placement in the crack without a way to traverse. time to climb! another 5 feet and i was past the crux. hard to give it a rating- probably only 5.7/5.8 but i can tell you it was a tense minute. the angle eased back and i slung the giant ponderosa on... another huge ledge.
taking a break in the shade of the pondo wishing for water we scoped some more lines. lots of bolted routes off left were interesting, but looked hard and without the book we finally decided to call it and head down. turns out there was a 10a sport climb there, and a .10b trad, there were also two 11b's and an 11c. i think we made a good call.

beers, wine, and a bad choice to climb a roadside crack-chimney followed. the rock by the road can be real rotten. i fell a couple feet onto a nut when my undercling came off in my hand. there's a reason these lines aren't in the book.

happy cragging!

Author:  Heather Whitney [ Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:15 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: careno crag- when you leave the ground without a plan

Nice job! Tip: Since I always carry my point-and-shoot camera on my harness, I recommend taking some quick photos of the guidebook pages before leaving the ground. Then when you're stuck you just look at the topo on your camera screen!

Author:  Nathan Johnson [ Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:16 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: careno crag- when you leave the ground without a plan

that is way-smart, thanks.

Author:  Valerie Wall [ Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:25 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: careno crag- when you leave the ground without a plan

Given your record of following the guidebook (or lack there of), you ought to just hike further up the hill and put up your own FAs. Then perhaps your getting lost adventures could make it into the next guide.

Author:  Nathan Johnson [ Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: careno crag- when you leave the ground without a plan

thats the plan val!

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