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 Post subject: Leavenworth 4/14-15
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:29 am 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:34 am
Posts: 324
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
This weekend Jochen, Frank, Cori, Brandon, and I decided to get out and climb some rocks in Leavenworth. Our general goal was to enjoy the sun, practice some leading, and climb fairly close to the road to not aggravate my lingering knee injury. All goals were met with resounding success and enthusiasm. We had a relaxing start Saturday and first set up camp in the group site at Eight Mile. The campground wasn't open yet but the hosts were there and said we could stay, which was pretty cool. I think it will be open next weekend. We then headed to the Mountaineers Dome, along with the rest of the world, and Jochen and I led an easy crack with Frank helping out with anchor building 101. Cori followed and then we found a 5.9 roof up and to the left that Jochen and Brandon climbed in fine style. I flailed. Cori pulled some skin off, but all is well. Finally, Jochen led another happy crack further up from there. We called it a day and went back to camp. Dinner was incredible. Fire+sausage+potato+cheese+cauliflower+zucchini+beer+smores. Win.
Sunday morning we packed up and walked down to Classic Crack (5. 8+), which Frank nicely led. We all gave it a go and got a taste of jamming. Delicious. Frank led the terrifying Twin Cracks (5.8 ) and I followed. Around that time Cori, Brandon, and Jochen headed back to Seattle. Frank and I stayed and I climbed Classic Crack again, it was a bit better the second time around. We paused for a nice lunch in the sun on the river. Then we headed to Domestic Dome and I led Ranch Style, a lovely knobby 5.6 slab. It was great fun. After that it was about time to head home.
Awesome weekend with great people and climbing! Thanks all.
Pictures are here: https://plus.google.com/photos/11445801 ... rPPIkITlFQ
PS I can't figure out how to upload pictures from the new google pics setup, any advice?


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 Post subject: Re: Leavenworth 4/14-15
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2012 10:37 am 
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Raging Alpoholic
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Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:15 pm
Posts: 812
Both food and rock sound delicious. I agree that gear on the crux of twin cracks is funky (assuming that's why it was scary). Classic Crack had been built up as such a sandbag, that I chickened out my first time there and led Twin cracks instead. I think the cam-eating nature of Classic crack makes it a much less heady lead though.


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 Post subject: Re: Leavenworth 4/14-15
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 7:17 am 
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Longshanks
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:47 pm
Posts: 927
Location: Denver
Nice!

Dallas sent me up Classic Crack on my first ever trip to Leavenworth. I think it was also the first crack climb I'd tried to lead. Needless to say, I had to lower off at the crux. Really cut down my 5.9/10 sport leading ego!


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 Post subject: Re: Leavenworth 4/14-15
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 7:52 am 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2010 8:01 pm
Posts: 115
Location: UW, Seattle
nice Sarah!
got out to Castle Rock yesterday with some folks from Cascade Climbers (they're not all jerks!)
warmed up on the classic Midway (2p 5.6) leading the chimney and following the crack/slab upper pitch. That upper pitch slab climbing scared me- gotta do more slab climbing.
Then we got down to business with the 5.8 SE face of Jello Tower- which I happily TRed through the juggy roof.
Next up- I led Damnation Crack (5.9, great name!) an off-width/ flaring chimney with tricky small gear. fun climb!
Then I led the first pitch of Angel (5.slippery- was a 5.7 to Beckey, .10a to mortal climbers) a short finger crack with terrible feet.

There was a camera crew out from Icicle TV, a leavenworth community website that features what the locals are up to- in this case crushing hard trad: MF overhang (.10c) and another eleven something. It was great meeting them all- really nice folks.

east-side granite is open for the season!
Midnight Rock (climbers right of castleton looks amazing!)


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 Post subject: Re: Leavenworth 4/14-15
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 10:30 am 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:43 pm
Posts: 494
Location: Seattle
Kinda surprised that Midway scared you but you led up Damnation fine, you might have been off route on Midway. I haven't quite had the guts to lead up Damnation since I never saw much opportunity for pro when top roping it. Maybe I'll give it a go this weekend.


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 Post subject: Re: Leavenworth 4/14-15
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 10:58 am 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:34 am
Posts: 324
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Yeah, I have top-roped Midway and was thinking about heading to Castle Rock again soon for some more leading adventures, sounds like it was exciting for you. :) Nice job, Nate, and that's cool about Icicle TV, might check that out.


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 Post subject: Re: Leavenworth 4/14-15
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 11:37 am 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2010 8:01 pm
Posts: 115
Location: UW, Seattle
Jon- I think we were a little off route (too far left) on p2 of Midway. I was not liking the cheese-grater pendulum I was going to take if the little slabby nubbins failed me as I traveresed right. The gear is trickey on Damnation- baby cams in horizontal cracks and pockets, some hand-sized gear.


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