[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4770: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4772: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4773: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4774: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
The Climbing Club • View topic - UWCC Spring Vantage Trip March 3-4th

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Thu Jun 20, 2019 4:47 am

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:06 am 
Offline
Raging Alpoholic
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:15 pm
Posts: 812
19 UWCCers and affiliates gathered in the desert for camping, potlucking, and climbing! Many of us drove out Friday night. My car was the first to get over the pass. It was snowing hard, the following cars were delayed by the conditions at the pass. It’s pretty cool that you can start in the rain, drive through a blizzard and end up sleeping under the stars without even the need for a bivy all within just two hours.

The rest of the crew arrived Saturday morning and by 9:30am we were on our way to the crags. It ended up being a little chilly all day, but still very climbable. Ben PS, Hannah, Ben Rutz and Jason started out at Sunshine Wall for some longer sport climbs and some trad climbing. The rest of us made our way over to Riverview Park for some shorter routes (some stout, some less stout). We hit up a nice mixed 5.10b “Camazonia” (I’ve looked at this this one forever, but lacked the gear to finish it), Oh Coulee, Oh Coulee (5.8 ), “Masticate Expectorate” (5.8 ) and tried “One move Blunder” (5.9 ), but gave up as the first move was really a blunder. There were some practice leads on “a walk in the park” (5.7), a first 5.10a lead on “serenity”, a couple of first 5.11a onsites (kind of) on “The creation of Tranquility”, though I’m pretty sure Brett and I both cheated by reaching left at the crux (pretty hard to ignore good holds), and after 4 years of attending nearly every UWCC Vantage trip Yinghua took the sharp end on “Battle of Insecurity” (a respectable 5.8 ). By about 3pm, we made our way back up to Sunshine Wall. Ian and Tanya joined us and put up “Sunshine Buttress” (5.10a), quite a warm-up after just making the drive over. Meanwhile others went for the cracks: Jon sent Air Guitar (5.10), still an exciting lead, Jason put up Tangled up in Blue (5.9), Ben PS led Steel Grill (5.9), and Nick made a valiant attempt at leading Stems and Seeds (a difficult to protect 5.11b trad climb that he’d sent beautifully just two weeks ago on TR). This attempt ended in a hair raising, gear pulling fall. His second piece held, all was well enough, and we broke out the emergency beers. I think that I may keep a Rainier Beer in my pack at the crags from now on for this particular situation. A rescue mission ensued to retrieve the lost cams on Stems and Seeds. Tired climbers tag-teamed a lead of “Hakuna Matata” (5.10b) next to Stems and Seeds (which actually turned out to be a really good find on Sunshine Wall with fun climbing).

The potluck was awesome, thanks to everyone for bringing such good food! We had fire roasted vegetables with potatoes and sausage, fire roasted pizza pockets, more fire roasted sausage, fire roasted bannocks (bread dough cooked on a stick!), fire roasted banana boats and of course s’mores. I think that we should continue the tradition of having the Vantage Potluck food be cooked on an open fire! There were several more non-fire roasted items too. I think that we all agreed that we ate better that night than we had all week long.

The next day brought glorious sunshine, it was probably 65 degrees at the crag. We all started at Sunshine Wall. “Hakuna Matata” went back up, along with Skip ‘em or clip ‘em (5.8 ), and Chossmaster (5.7). Then we had some trad practice with Jason’s goal for the weekend (Air Guitar), nice job! Pony Keg (a nice 5.9 trad climb just right of Air Guitar that I’ve overlooked until now), and Seven Virgins and a Mule (5.7).

Next we made our way over to Millenium Wall. There we put up Heel Higher Cresent (5.10a), got in some beginner jamming practice with a rare trad climb for the lower walls, Lucky Dogs (5.8 ), then moved on to Nazi Boyfriend (5.10b), No Time to Deviate (5.10c), and finished with Brett’s goal for the weekend: a red-point of Frank Black (5.11b), a surprisingly loose climb for having a 4 star rating, but this is Vantage after all.

Photos!

A steep start to “one move blunder”:


Ben on Steel Grill, remnants of Nick’s valiant attempt at Stems and Seeds is just to the left:


But borrowed cragging dogs make everything better!


The sun hits in full force on Sunday at noon and we quickly turn into gawkers instead of climbers:


Brett redpoints Frank Black:


Yinghua practices crack climbing on Lucky Dogs:


Igor is loving the desert sun!


The UWCC crew heads home after another trip to Vantage:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 12:56 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 08, 2009 2:34 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Seattle
Nice trip report and pictres, Val! Fun to see so many friendly faces out there. Yes, the first move on the 5.9 "One move blunder" is daunting. The use of a stick clip for the first bolt is the only reason that i have climbed that one!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 1:17 pm 
Offline
UW Climber

Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2009 9:28 pm
Posts: 279
That looks sweet! I'm super jealous.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 2:11 pm 
Offline
UW Climber

Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 3:15 am
Posts: 129
Such a wonderful opportunity for early season climbing with such a supportive group of climbers! It was group outings like this that built my foundation in climbing skills, with so many knowledgeable people to watch and ask questions of.

5.10b Camazonia is a very nice route that rarely sees traffic because of the 1 or 2 pieces of trad gear needed up top; glad to hear you got on, and enjoyed it.

5.8 Masticate Expectorate is a pleasant and fun line

5.9 One Move Blunder has a burly opening and it’s good practice and an introduction to the style of opening moves on many quality sport routes on the lower level. The upper level is mostly columnar basalt, which provides somewhat geometric columns with cracks between them and vertical face climbing festooned with crisp and deep horizontal hand holds. The lower level is entablature basalt, which provides challenging and sometimes devious climbing. This lower level rock may sometimes present as a roof at the bottom of the route, providing a burly opening sequence.

5.7 A Walk in the Park has on opening that is not quite overhung but it is devious

5.11a Psychogenic Fugue Thus Far is a good route to break into the 11’s at Frenchman Coulee, though, if you use that left arête near 5.11a The Creation of Tranquility that also makes a good “first 5.11 lead route.”

5.7 The Chossmaster is a full value route because you can train for multipitch climbing since it has a nice ledge and good anchors halfway up the entire route.

5.10b Nazi Boyfriend and 5.10c No Time to Deviate are both great routes

5.11b Frank Black has enjoyable and relatively easy climbing for the top half but the first several bolts offer sustained and devious problem solving. I don’t recall it as having any loose rock, but, things do change.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:52 pm 
Offline
UW Climber

Joined: Wed Sep 14, 2011 11:49 am
Posts: 19
I had a great time on the trip. Thanks to everyone who participated. I'll throw in a few of the photos I took.

Yinghua on her first sport lead.
Image

Ben on belay, I'm thinking it's Brett and Jason climbing.
Image

Nearly bed time.
Image

That spiffy rock near camp.
Image

The view from the top of Hakuna Matata I think.
Image

Ian giving Val a belay.
Image

Tanya cleaning up.
Image

Scrambling out on Sunday afternoon.
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:32 am 
Offline
UW Climber

Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2011 6:14 pm
Posts: 3
That looks so sweet. I'm kicking myself for not paying attention to the message board. Any ideas for a trip for next quarter?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:19 am 
Offline
UW Climber

Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2010 8:01 pm
Posts: 115
Location: UW, Seattle
funny i remember saying something about how scary it would be to lead stems and seeds.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 9:28 am 
Offline
Raging Alpoholic
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:15 pm
Posts: 812


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 5:07 pm 
Offline
UW Climber

Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2012 4:45 pm
Posts: 3


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 10:21 am 
Offline
Raging Alpoholic
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:15 pm
Posts: 812
Thanks for sharing the video. Those helmet cams must really keep your belayer accountable huh? If they're chatting or looking elsewhere when you're leading a steep section, you'll know!


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group