The Climbing Club

Another Oct 22/23 Vantage trip report
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Author:  Heather Whitney [ Mon Oct 24, 2011 8:39 pm ]
Post subject:  Another Oct 22/23 Vantage trip report

My plans for easy trad multipitch practice at Leavenworth fell apart with a last minute unexpectedly sick climbing partner and a rapidly deteriorating forecast. Fortunately, Aubrey came to my rescue with a not-so-subtle hint to climb at Vantage, so off we went. Joining us were Sweta (a UW grad student and a new UWCC member, I believe), and my college friend Julie. We left Saturday morning from Seattle and joined up with my two longtime WAC-member friends, Pat & Nadia, who were just finishing a lazy morning and breakfast as we pulled into the Vantage camping area around 11am. After a short discussion, we decided to to explore Riverview Park, which was new to all of us. We kept our eyes open for any UWCC folks, since we knew they were somewhere in the area.

With three ropes and three leaders, we quickly put up a succession of fun routes -- all those top ropes made it feel almost like a climbing gym! Pat led Corroding Through Nocturnal Silk (5.8_) while I put up Masticate Expectorate (5.8_). Aubrey climbed the latter and dragged a rope to set up the adjacent Bob is Real (5.10a), which we all proceeded to top rope. My stick clip became super useful in protecting the first moves off the ground on One Move Blunder (5.9), led by Pat. The adjacent route The Red Drill Rules (5.10a), conveniently shared the same anchor chains, allowing for more fun safe bouldery start practices. Feeling good and having the stick clip handy to clip the first bolt again, I tackled nearby Rio Vista (5.10b), which was my favorite climb of the day. The hardest moves (like many of the climbs at Riverview Park) were the first ones off the ground. Finally, Aubrey led Oh Coulee, Oh Coulee (5.8_) so our less experienced climbers in the group could enjoy another moderate climb. Not having had enough fun just leading Rio Vista, I returned to climb it again on top rope so I could work on the starting moves again. By then it was around 5:30p, and folks were hankering for some dinner and starting to feel pumped out from all the bouldery starts, so we hiked back to camp.

Sunday dawned with high clouds after a blustery and restless night. (makes me wish my tent doesnt have mesh right at sleeping-head-height... I had fine sand blowing into my face all night!) Aubrey, Sweta, Julie, and I decided to go explore another new wall for us -- the Millenium Wall -- while Pat & Nadia returned to Seattle (they had been climbing since Friday).

We arrived at the Millenium Wall before anyone else, giving us first dibs at what appears to be a ton of moderate sport climbs! I will definitely have to return and explore this area further. Eventually more people joined us, but there were so many moderate climbs available that we didn't feel crunched by the crowds. We climbed a total of 8 climbs that were all within about 100 feet of each other.

Aubrey easily set up Gas Sipper (5.8_), from which a redirect with a quickdraw allowed top-roping of the adjacent The Big Finish 5.10a. Meanwhile, I tackled Y2K Crash (5.9) and shamelessly hung on the 4th bolt for a short bit to ponder which route to take past the mini overhang about two-thirds of the way up. I ended up going left and found an awesome finger lock jam. I'm still so new to crack climbing that I get all excited when I figure out new types of jamming techniques. Next Aubrey put up the fun Heel Higher Crescent (5.10a). From near the top of that climb, Aubrey was able to traverse over to the anchors of the adjacent crack climb Lucky Dogs (5.8_) and set up another top rope. Lucky Dogs had one move that required a hand jam which was quite satisfying. Aubrey also led Taking It Easy (5.9), which shared an anchor with Noggin Garnish (5.9), so we nabbed another two-for-one. I finished off the day by leading Routecleaning 101: Intro to Mank (5.9), a fun climb that required some thoughtful moves to get past the first bolt. By then, it was nearing 3p, our finger tips were getting raw, and folks wanted to get an early departure back to Seattle, so we called it a day. We hiked back to the small parking lot down by Sunset Park, passing through Riverview Park probably around 3p. The place was completely empty at that time, so the UWCC crowd must have arrived there just after we passed through!

Some pictures!

Pat & Nadia's dog Rika handled the Slot downclimb surprisingly well! (yes, this is the dog that was lost and found on Mt Teneriffe 2 weeks ago). Rika hid in the shade most of Saturday:

Pat prepares to lead the opening moves on One Move Blunder (5.9) in Riverview Park:

Pat leads higher on One Move Blunder (5.9):

View from near the top of Bob is Real (5.10a):

Nadia pulls the opening moves on The Red Drill Rules (5.10a):

Nadai coaches Sweta through the opening moves of One Move Blunder (5.9):

Aubrey cranks through the opening moves on The Red Drill Rules (5.10a):

Aubrey and Sweta hang out Sunday morning at the Millenium Wall below Gas Sipper (5.8_):

Sweta top ropes Heel Higher Crescent (5.10a):

Aubrey leads Taking It Easy (5.9):

Aubrey belays Sweta up the start of Taking It Easy (5.9):

Author:  Valerie Wall [ Mon Oct 24, 2011 8:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Another Oct 22/23 Vantage trip report

We really did just miss you guys somehow. We were down at Riverview basically repeating your Saturday climbs. You guys got in a lot of climbing this weekend, nice!

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