|The Climbing Club
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|Author:||Valerie Wall [ Mon Oct 17, 2011 11:06 am ]|
|Post subject:||Vantage Top-roping|
This Saturday, Jon, Ben and I took advantage of a few good, long, difficult routes on Sunshine Wall that can be easily top-roped and ran a couple laps on each these. We are all working on leading in the 5.9+-5.10 trad range right now. This task has been especially daunting for me, because most of what I’ve been following has only been in the 5.10 range. It is very comforting to know that you can pull a 5.11 move or two, when you really need it, before you start regularly leading 5.10 climbs. Sunshine Wall offers some good 5.10 and 5.11 routes for one to practice jamming technique on. Best of all, you can climb them without bringing your 5.11 rope-gun, ‘cause really, it can be hard to find a 5.11 rope-gun right when you need one.
I’ll start this Trip report by showing you the few that we did last Saturday. Then, I’ll add more to this report as I go back in search of other top-rope accessible routes at Vantage. Feel free to add your own top-rope adventures to this thread. Hopefully we can get together a nice list of practice crack climbs at Vantage that are easily accessible for everyone!
Disclaimer: This isn’t quite as easy as top-roping in a gym or sport crag. Some knowledge of anchor building and gear placement may be necessary to top-rope some of these climbs. Still, this is far easier than leading them yourself!
I’ll organize them in the following manner:
Climb name, grade
Type of climbing
Anchor setting challenges encountered
Go ahead and use this as a template to add your own top-rope climb suggestions!
Burning Spears, 5.10c
Tomato Wall (near gully 3)
Finger jams and stemming
Anchor is easily reached from the mesa top, two bolts with one rap ring each. Two quickdraws are sufficient here.
Steel Grill, Bob’s your Uncle and Stems and Seeds can all be reached by following a faint path to the left just about 50’ after this sign. Minimize excessive trampling, as the sign says.
Steel Grill, 5.9
Sunshine Wall (just east of Air Guitar)
Hand jams, fist jams, off hands, stemming, finger cracks, offwidth, everything!
Chain Anchor easily reached from mesa top (two quickdraws are sufficient)
Bob’s your Uncle, 5.11a
Sunshine Wall (immediately left of Steel Grill)
Face climbing, hand jams and a difficult fingercrack finish
We redirected the chains from Steel Grill for this. A directional piece (0.5 or 0.75) and a cordelette was used for the redirection.
Stems and Seeds, 5.11b
Sunshine Wall (twin finger cracks left of Bob’s your Uncle)
Stemming, face climbing, finger jams, hand jams, and fist jams
Two bolts are easily reached from the mesa top. Bring a longer cordellette, to extend the anchor from the bolts to beyond the lip of the wall (about 2’).
Ben first tries to avoid conventional stemming of Stems and Seeds
Then Ben gives in to the long stem:
Jon making the long stretch:
|Author:||Heather Whitney [ Mon Oct 17, 2011 11:59 am ]|
|Post subject:||Re: Vantage Top-roping|
Val, thanks! This is great information! I did not realize that so many of these harder climbs could be top-roped.
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