[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4770: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4772: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4773: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4774: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
The Climbing Club • View topic - Vantage Top-roping

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Mon Sep 16, 2019 9:59 am

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 2 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Vantage Top-roping
PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 11:06 am 
Offline
Raging Alpoholic
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:15 pm
Posts: 812
This Saturday, Jon, Ben and I took advantage of a few good, long, difficult routes on Sunshine Wall that can be easily top-roped and ran a couple laps on each these. We are all working on leading in the 5.9+-5.10 trad range right now. This task has been especially daunting for me, because most of what I’ve been following has only been in the 5.10 range. It is very comforting to know that you can pull a 5.11 move or two, when you really need it, before you start regularly leading 5.10 climbs. Sunshine Wall offers some good 5.10 and 5.11 routes for one to practice jamming technique on. Best of all, you can climb them without bringing your 5.11 rope-gun, ‘cause really, it can be hard to find a 5.11 rope-gun right when you need one.

I’ll start this Trip report by showing you the few that we did last Saturday. Then, I’ll add more to this report as I go back in search of other top-rope accessible routes at Vantage. Feel free to add your own top-rope adventures to this thread. Hopefully we can get together a nice list of practice crack climbs at Vantage that are easily accessible for everyone!

Disclaimer: This isn’t quite as easy as top-roping in a gym or sport crag. Some knowledge of anchor building and gear placement may be necessary to top-rope some of these climbs. Still, this is far easier than leading them yourself!

I’ll organize them in the following manner:
Climb name, grade
Type of climbing
Location
Anchor setting challenges encountered

Go ahead and use this as a template to add your own top-rope climb suggestions!

Burning Spears, 5.10c
Tomato Wall (near gully 3)
Finger jams and stemming
Anchor is easily reached from the mesa top, two bolts with one rap ring each. Two quickdraws are sufficient here.


Steel Grill, Bob’s your Uncle and Stems and Seeds can all be reached by following a faint path to the left just about 50’ after this sign. Minimize excessive trampling, as the sign says.


Steel Grill, 5.9
Sunshine Wall (just east of Air Guitar)
Hand jams, fist jams, off hands, stemming, finger cracks, offwidth, everything!
Chain Anchor easily reached from mesa top (two quickdraws are sufficient)





Bob’s your Uncle, 5.11a
Sunshine Wall (immediately left of Steel Grill)
Face climbing, hand jams and a difficult fingercrack finish
We redirected the chains from Steel Grill for this. A directional piece (0.5 or 0.75) and a cordelette was used for the redirection.




Stems and Seeds, 5.11b
Sunshine Wall (twin finger cracks left of Bob’s your Uncle)
Stemming, face climbing, finger jams, hand jams, and fist jams
Two bolts are easily reached from the mesa top. Bring a longer cordellette, to extend the anchor from the bolts to beyond the lip of the wall (about 2’).

Ben first tries to avoid conventional stemming of Stems and Seeds


Then Ben gives in to the long stem:


Jon making the long stretch:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Vantage Top-roping
PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 11:59 am 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 08, 2009 2:34 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Seattle
Val, thanks! This is great information! I did not realize that so many of these harder climbs could be top-roped.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 2 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group