[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4770: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4772: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4773: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4774: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
The Climbing Club • View topic - Leavenworth- Castle Rock and Chumstick Snag

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Wed Aug 21, 2019 5:09 am

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 12:07 pm 
Offline
Raging Alpoholic
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:15 pm
Posts: 812
What a treat it was to have the UWCC campout in Leavenworth this year, one of my favorite places. Leavenworth isn’t only a great place to push one’s limits with its friendly, grippy granite, but it is also a place to explore with miles (both horizontal and vertical) of terrain dotted with crags of all sorts. We got a good share of both tagging steep, classic routes and a little exploration for new (to us at least) crags.
With the threat of rain later in the day, Jason and I got an early start up to Castle Rock on Saturday. This was Jason’s first multipitch climb, and he would be following most of it, so I picked a line that would keep things spicy for both the leader and the follower on this trip. We began with the Fault (5.6), a necessary annoyance that gains the next two high quality pitches of lower Castle Rock. Next was P1 of Catapult (5.8.) a corner stemming pitch that gains Stoner’s Ledge, directly below the Bone (5.9). This was my first time climbing the Bone. I’ve spent the last couple of weeks pondering how one gets around the short roof and on top of this imposing structure. The answer was an exciting hand traverse away from the wall, then throw a leg over the bone and you’re up! There were options for pro under the roof and I stupidly used them creating enormous rope drag. Oh well, bonus pitch! Jason followed, a fall at an inopportune spot left him dangling ~5’ from the wall (like I said, we kept it exciting for both parties here!). Luckily, Jason’s long legs came in handy and hey was able to kick away from the wall, swing back and grab the rock once again (one may consider prusiks for the follower, just in case you don’t have the same build as Jason). Jason got to lead the bonus P2 of the Bone and finish up to Logger’s Ledge (the start of upper Castle Rock). Keeping things spicy for both leader and follower, we chose Scary Canary (5.8/9) with the infamous step across. I’ve followed the exciting P2 twice before, but this was my first time leading it. So fun! We ran up to the top, came back to loggers ledge for lunch with Adam and Amelia and pondered how slippery P1 of Angel (5.10b) was going to be. For my first attempt, I went straight for the obvious foot hold. Not the answer here, I slipped right off, catching myself, a little too well, on my solidly jammed fingers. Ouch! Take two, go for the second generation holds, they are a little smaller, less obvious but still have some grip left; at least for now they do. It had been drizzling on and off all day, but right as I got to the top of the 20’ finger crack it was clear that the rain was here to stay. Crunch time. I finished P1 and we headed back to join the rest of the UWCC at camp.
Catapult


The Bone


Canary


Top out on P1 of Canary (never a graceful moment)


The step across


Adam leads Damnation crack (1/2 in the rain!)


After a lazy morning, I got back on some more rock. I wandered up to Ski Tracks Crack (5.9) with Nathan and Ethan and got my own Welty photo shoot. Next we joined the rest of the UWCC at Playground point for some more photos (including Sarah’s first lead on gear!).









I met back up with Jason, Jasmine and Dylan for a final adventure to end the weekend. Ever since purchasing the new Leavenworth guide, I’ve wondered about Chumstick Snag. An interesting looking sandstone formation without a detailed description of how to locate it. We quickly learned that locating this formation is half of the fun, so I will not leak out any additional information other than what we had in the guide book and on the IPhone. While searching, we were spotted by one of the locals.
Local: “I’m just checkin’ you guys out” me:“We’ll perhaps you can help us out, we are looking for Chumstick Snag” (I showed him the photo in the guide book). Local: “that looks like a good way to die. Where are you guys from?”
Us: “Seattle”
Local: “You came all the way from Seattle to climb a damn mountain?!”
He shared stories with us of horseback riding in the Stuart range in the ‘60’s and encountering other crazy mountain climbers with picks, ropes, axes and lanterns! He then told us that he was Ok with us poking around his land in search of the crag, though he had never seen it himself. He just asked that we left a stick on the water truck if we were successful.

Some detective work led us to beautiful wild flowers and an open ridge and finally to the crag! The crag itself is similar to Peshastin in rock quality, a little unnerving, but so fun just because it surely is something that you don’t see every day. We all climbed the 5.8 route on the short side of the formation, a bolted wandering route that takes you through cool pockets and past some scary remnants of old pro. We headed back in alpenglow light and left a big stick on the water truck. Classics are classic for a reason, but keep searching for obscurities and you will be rewarded!

















Last edited by Valerie Wall on Tue May 24, 2011 9:10 am, edited 2 times in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 2:20 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2011 2:09 pm
Posts: 64
Arrrg, I can't believe I missed that. Next weekend...

Is that blue C4 in one of the Chumstick photos a "scary remanent" or something you placed?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 2:41 pm 
Offline
Raging Alpoholic
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:15 pm
Posts: 812


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 3:41 pm 
Offline
UW Climber

Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2010 6:23 pm
Posts: 33
Nice trip report, Val! Awesome photos. It was epic - am so glad I decided to join the silliness. This is such a brief recap of the conversation with the local - it was very entertaining. Love your spirit of exploration, focus and single mindedness when climbing rocks - keep it up! and thanks for sharing.

I'm stoked about the next weekend adventure in another couple of weeks ..


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 6:30 pm 
Offline
UW Climber

Joined: Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:20 pm
Posts: 46
Location: seattle
anyone have suggestions for the best easy routes with short approaches at leavenworth (i have plantar fasciitis and am recovering from a tfcc tear and tendonitis in my wrist, so the shorter the approach the better, and nothing harder than 5.9).

thanks!
christie


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 9:36 am 
Offline
Raging Alpoholic
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:15 pm
Posts: 812
Christie,

Leavenworth is hard to do with out a lot of walking between routes. Everything is so spread out. But here are a few places that are either close to the road or have a higher density of moderate routes to make the walk worth while. Enjoy!

If you are interested in trad climbing, then Castle Rock is the place to go (there is no approach). There are plenty of multipitch routes there from 5.6-5.9. Another option is Groundhog Day on February Buttress (3 pitches 5.6/7) with a 10 min approach. The climbing wasn't the most interesting, but the view of hwy2 and Leavenworth is worth it. Another great place is Icicle Buttress (also no approach), it has a 3-4 pitch route called R&D that is pretty fun. It also has Spaghetti Sauce (5.8.) and Arch(?) (5.8.). These are both level with the road. Spaghetti Sauce is a great route and the Arch route (right next to it) also looks good, though I haven't climbed the Arch one yet. Alphabet wall and Classic Crack are other good roadside crags (and a few harder routes can be TR'd on these). Finally Pearly Gates with a 45 min approach has a high density of 5.8-5.9 climbs.

The first several places that I mentioned are all for trad. If sport is your thing, then Clem's holler (30 min approach) and the Crags above it are good options.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 3:08 am 
Offline
The 11th Essential
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2004 10:28 am
Posts: 612
Location: Boulder, CO
Valery, Chumstick Snag is gorgeous! I want to do a photo shoot there...

Some of my photos from the Leavenworth Spring Campout - from adventure skiing below tree line on the flanks of Jim Hill Mountain, to climbing at Ski Tracks Crack and Playground Point to festive times at Tumwater Campground.




The shredders, with dreams of alpine pow unfulfilled, quickly spiral into snowball debauchery.
Image

As the trees thicken on the descent, some (Aubrey) are forced to deski...
Image

...while others (Ian) persevere over the crux pitch.
Image

Oh! Adam...
ImageImage

... & Carolina
Image

Valery climbs Ski Tracks Crack (5.9)! Nathan takes up the rear.
Image
Image

Lazying around at at Playground Point.
Image

Historical leads.
Image
Image

'til next time!
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group