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The Climbing Club • View topic - Darrington- Till Broad Daylight

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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 8:55 am 
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Raging Alpoholic
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Zoe, Seth, Lee and I checked out Darrington this Saturday. It was the first time to the area for all of us, and all of us agreed that we'll be coming back for more sometime. We arrived early on the South side of 3 'o clock rock. Below the Arch are a couple of nice single-pitch warm-up climbs. Under the Bored Walk is a fun, knobby 5.7. After a taste of Darrington friction, we got on Till Broad Daylight (5.9). It was a well-bolted 6-pitch route. We strung together P1 and P2 as well as P3 and P4 to speed our ascent, this worked really well. By well-bolted, I mean well-bolted for Darrington standards, they were spaced far enough apart that you could get into your climbing groove with often several moves between bolts. The bolts were older, possibly buttonheads(?), but the belays were all retro-bolted with shiny, new hardware (except the belay below P5; our P3, which was actually the one that I would have really wanted to be new given that it is at the base of the crux pitch). Not really knowing what to expect, we brough full racks. The route only took a #2 on our first and second pitch, and a #0.5 on our third pitch. You couldn't get in anything else if you tried, so don't bring it.

So, the two most important things to mention, is that all of the belays are hanging belays, and the rappel route is, in fact, >30m. The distance to the first rappel station is exactly 32m away. This was about the most annoying 2m you can imagine. After Lee and I waited for 45 minutes for our second team and, thus, second rope to arrive, Lee rapped to the end of the rope and could almost touch the rap station, but almost was not enough in this case, so he got in some prusiking practice and wandered around the huge open slab on rappel. I got very acquainted with my harness for the next couple of hours. I now believe that light isn't always right and extra padding on the leg loops can be a very worthwhile investment.

Upon the arrival of Seth and Zoe, we made three double rope rappels straight down the tidbits route. We called it a day and decided to save Silent Running for another trip. With such a spectacular setting, we all be back to hang-out on the rock again.

Lee on P1


Hanging Belay below the crux pitch


View of Exfoliation Dome


Lee encouraging Zoe as she nears the top of the crux pitch


Hanging out


Seth leads the final pitch


Almost there!


Rapping down


It was fun climbing with all of you guys! :drink:


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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 9:08 am 
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Alpine Slogger
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Location: Too far from a summit
Looks pretty awesome!

_________________
"Where the clouds can go men can go; but they must be hardy men."
- Andreas Maurer


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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 9:52 am 
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Duchess of Bearington
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Location: closer to josh, kris, and mel than craig
Looks great... the I one time I was out there, I really enjoyed the slab and definitely learned to trust my feet.

Josh and I experienced the same issue with the rappels -- good to know that the other climbs have the same issues. I'll never venture over there without a 70m rope.


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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 10:45 am 
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Tenacious Lee
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Location: Seattle
Super fun day, I'll be heading back to the area at the next opportunity. I'd like to second Val's beta: we climbed broad daylight with cams from 0.3 to 3 inches, a full set of nuts, and four tricams, but only ended up using the 2 inch cam twice and the 0.5 inch cam once; there are simply no other gear opportunities. And, it's very important that you have either a 70m rope or two 60m ropes for the rappels. Val, Seth, and Zoe, perhaps you looked closer than I did, but could one still bypass that sketchy one buttonhead, one beer-can rap anchor with a 70m? My feeling is no, which is a strong argument for two ropes instead of one 70m.

When I rappelled - anticipating having to ascend the rope - I used Dave's suggestion of a Klemheist above the rappel device instead of an autoblock below, which I must say worked great, thanks Dave! I might use a Bachman in the future for ease of rope tending, but otherwise I highly recommend it. Getting to the very end of the rope only to have 2m of clean face in between me and the rap station was definitely a maddening experience.

We also cleaned some of the old webbing off the last rappel station after Zoe graciously agreed to donate some that she was carrying. However, it was only long enough to go from one bolt to the rings, so right now there are two webbing loops from the left bolt, and one webbing loop and one cord loop from the right bolt. If anyone's heading there soon it would be cleaner to have one or two continuous pieces of webbing, if you feel like earning some climbing karma. Also, if anyone has bolting experience there are a lot of buttonhead bolts that should be replaced, especially - as Val mentioned - at the top of the 4th (2nd if you connect up the ridiculously short pitches) pitch. If you need a partner or a financial donation to cover the cost of the new bolts, I'm in.

Again, great climbing with you guys, and I'm glad we finally climbed together, Val!


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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 4:29 pm 
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UW Climber
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Location: Seattle
thanks for sharing the pics and beta! I can't wait to get out there!


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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 6:55 pm 
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Location: Bellingham
Looks like a good time out there! I will definitely have to check this area out when I come visit in June!


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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 8:02 pm 
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UW Climber
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Location: Edmonds WA
Lee, I like the barefoot rappelling. Did you climb without shoes as well?


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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 8:43 pm 
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Tenacious Lee
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Location: Seattle


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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:19 am 
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Raging Alpoholic
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Hey V!
Nope, no ticks found by us at 3 'o clock rock. There were TONS in Leavenworth though. I still feel a little crawly. You made it out there too, right? Where to?


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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:27 am 
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Tenacious Lee
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I also didn't see any ticks, but I did see a few mosquitoes and got bitten once, so it might be time to start packing the bug spray at lower elevations.


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 3:22 pm 
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Raging Alpoholic
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It sounds like 'Til Broad Daylight has been rebolted! This was a fun slab route and now I'd recommend it to those newish the Darrington slab climbing given it's moderate rating, reasonably close bolting and that fact that the bolts are now safe. Given how easy it sounds like it was to remove those old bolts, I'm glad we didn't test their ability to hold a fall!

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ost1069964


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 6:20 pm 
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UW Climber
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Location: Seattle
Val, that's great news! Thanks for letting us know -- I can't wait to get out there now!


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