|The Climbing Club
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|Author:||Jeremy Bowler [ Sun May 20, 2007 7:24 am ]|
With weather reports making the west side of the mtns looking bad and even sunday on the eastside possibly rainy, I went over to Mazama. Leaving around 4:30, I got to the base of Goat Wall around 8:30 (took the diretissimo approach instead of even trying to find the trail) with the goal of trying Restless Native. Supposedly, the route is 10-11p long following the bluish/greenish rock to the right of the Goat's Beard. After hiking around the base for 1/2hr staring up and trying to find any bolts or anchors and not finding a trace of anything (not even higher up), I busted out the topo for Sisyphus (11p, .11a) and easily found the base of that route. Melissa linked the 1st 2 pitches, a short and easy 5.7 then a slightly tenuous couple of 5.9 slab moves followed by some easier climbing made for nearly a full 60m. I then led the next pitch, a .10- that goes up a steepening buttress on good holds. For whatever reason my shoulder felt totally tweaked after that (could it be that I've been climbing a lot lately?), so, that along with the increasing wind and the light rain that was comming down, I suggested that we bail. This .10 pitch that I led wanders to the right of the rappel route, so we climbed the next pitch of 5.2 to be in line with the stations. The route and rappels can be done with a single 60m rope, but we had climbed on my half ropes since we would have needed 2 60m to get off restless native. 2 rappels later we were on the ground. By that time the sun was out and it was warm, so we went for a short hike then had happy hour on my folk's deck in Mazama.
For anyone looking to do Sisphus:
-BRING HELMETS. The first 5 pitches cross over a bunch of ledges covered with loose rock. I got hit several times just from the rope brushing a ledge. Pulling the rope from out first rappel was terifying as we were clipped into a fixed anchor and knew the rope was going to drag across 3 ledges with all the rock bits funneling to where we were. I think I was hit with more rock on this route than th rest of my climbing career so far (says a lot about how much I get into the mountains).
-Don't do the route when other folks are on it. You, or they will kick off rocks, break holds, or just some how send rocks flying.
All in all I was not that impressed by this route, maybe only **. The rock quality was sub par and the climbing not all that interesting. Maybe it gets better higher up? The bolts were just off to the side of large, lichen-covered holds, making me think that the FA party was trying too hard to force the harder climbing. However the setting was awesome and the steepness made for a small big-wall feel.
I would still be interested in trying the Restless Native route, if I was looking at where I thought it shoud be, it follows a steep section of rock where one wouldn't run into these scree ledges.
Here's the Sisphus topo if you're interested
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