The Climbing Club

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 10:21 pm 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2004 1:26 pm
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Location: Boulder, CO
Cruised over to LW for the CC ropeup this past weekend. Had a great time, although UWCC was a bit underrepresented. On Saturday Chuck S. and I headed up to Careno for some great cragging. We started on Bale-Kramer, which I had climbed P1-3 before. It is a good climb, but only the crack pitch is really stellar. The 2nd pitch is fun, but a bit contrived given the easy crack 6 ft to the right. At the top tier we started on pocketmeister, which I thought was great. The only downside is the bolts next to pro when nearly anybody who made it up there could be expected to have a rack. The climb starts out fun and steep, then moves on to a rather sequency pocketed slab. Next we climbed P4 Bale Kramer which was pretty good. On the walk off we stopped to climb Condo Corner. This is a stellar climb. Starts in a sweet corner crack, then turns to hard stemming before a good rest and the crux roof. Back at the base of Careno we decided to do the regular route. IMO this route is way better than BK. I was a bit scared of the crack as I had heard some ankle breaker stories. Eventually, I sacked up and went for it. I made it through the crack with a little sweating, then opted for the bolted face variation to finish the pitch. I made it cleanly up the last bolt, but couldnt nail the final crimpy sequence. After one short fall with a bolt above, i figured out the difficult (for me) moves. The next pitch is the much acclaimed 5.7 corner crack. This is an awesome pitch, its just too bad it isnt longer. The next 5.8 pitch is also excellent with fun stems and jams past a steep bulge. The last pitch starts with a hard move that chuck and I spent some time examining to figure out the best sequence. Eventually we noticed a 00 TCU placement to protect the moves. With gear overhead, chuck pulled through the start without much problem. Higher in the pitch things get hard again and chuck took a short fall below a jingus 0 TCU. Surprisingly it held and the next go chuck made it through. Another great pitch, but maybe a bit heady on lead now that a fixed pin has blown (where the 0 TCU went).

Saturday night had a bunch of great slide shows including Wayne's recent mongo ridge solo traverse and an abbreviated presentation of Colin's alaska climb. Sunday was a bit of a late start and weather was threatening (a little rain overnight). Matt and I decided to go check out Peshastin. Amazingly when we arrived at the state park, we found it closed for winter (in october,WTF). We drove back to LW just as the rain started to intensify. After a breif break to check out the Salmon in the wenatchee, we headed back home.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 11:22 pm 
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An Old Geezer
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 2:27 pm
Posts: 1182
Nice! I hear that Chuck guy's pretty cool.


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