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The Climbing Club • View topic - Exit 32 cragging

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Mon Oct 14, 2019 7:22 am

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 Post subject: Exit 32 cragging
PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 10:20 am 
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Jer-Bear

Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2003 11:45 am
Posts: 314
Location: Seattle
Last weekend I went to WWI with Cam. We warmed up on Girls in the Gym, then I tried to onsight Psychowussy (which didn't go so well, but I got it on my 3rd go). He then did Jealsous God (.12a) which I followed and is super fun, long moves through a roof on good holds then a heinous sloper around the lip makes up the crux. Cam then worked his way (for the first time up Chronic (.13b) while I stared up in amazement. We finished the day off with a pitpiful performance by me on Aborigine.
Then yesterday, Josh Whorley and I went back to WWI. We warmed up on the .10c and .10d at the far left end of the wall (BLM-5 and BLM-6 I think). Both are fun, but more slabby/techniquey than the rest of WWI. We then moved on to The Bad Guy (.11c). I tried for the onsight of this one as well, but got smacked down and hung some 4 or 5 times- lame. Josh then flashed it, I ate a cliff bar and drank some water, then it went clean on my 2nd go. We then moved over to "Sweet Tooth" (.12a) about which in the guidebook says "It's good to be tall". I don't think I've read anything truer. I watched as Josh made his way to the first crux (a blank looking bulge) and spent quite a bit of time finding some holds to use, he finally did, but I was nervous because he was stretched tip to tip (for those of you who don'tknow hime, I think he's around 6'2"-ish while I'm 5'6"). He then spent some time on the second crux (which looked even harder) and then it was my turn. I don't think I've ever wallowed so much on a climb. After falling several times, I pulled on a draw to by-pass the first bit, then hung all over the second crux and again, pulled on a bolt. Both feeling entirely dejected, we cooled down on "Disincarnate" (.11a) which is pretty over-hung, but with huges holds. I made it through the pumpy bit, but failed at the bouldery mantle finish, Josh followed it clean.
We then hit Scott's Dairy freeze for obligatory caloric refill.

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climbing isn't a hobby, its a lifestyle. its one step above bum and one below pimp.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 12:32 am 
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Jer-Bear

Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2003 11:45 am
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climbing isn't a hobby, its a lifestyle. its one step above bum and one below pimp.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 1:36 pm 
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Sissy Boy

Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 2:24 pm
Posts: 146
Location: Washington
It is 11d to the first anchors...it's 12a to the second set...I think everyone confuses this point. I've seen maybe 2 people ever try the 5.12a section and both said it was 12a. The other wierd part is that NO guide book posts the first section as 5.12a, yet all the goobers seem to think it's 12a to the first set of anchors...noobs.

P.S. It's bad style to spend more than 30 seconds on the massive midpoint ledge and will drop the grade of the route to 5.10+

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 3:15 pm 
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Jer-Bear

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 4:22 pm 
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UW Climber
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An Old Geezer
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:02 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:18 pm 
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Sissy Boy

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