Last weekend I went to WWI with Cam. We warmed up on Girls in the Gym, then I tried to onsight Psychowussy (which didn't go so well, but I got it on my 3rd go). He then did Jealsous God (.12a) which I followed and is super fun, long moves through a roof on good holds then a heinous sloper around the lip makes up the crux. Cam then worked his way (for the first time up Chronic (.13b) while I stared up in amazement. We finished the day off with a pitpiful performance by me on Aborigine.
Then yesterday, Josh Whorley and I went back to WWI. We warmed up on the .10c and .10d at the far left end of the wall (BLM-5 and BLM-6 I think). Both are fun, but more slabby/techniquey than the rest of WWI. We then moved on to The Bad Guy (.11c). I tried for the onsight of this one as well, but got smacked down and hung some 4 or 5 times- lame. Josh then flashed it, I ate a cliff bar and drank some water, then it went clean on my 2nd go. We then moved over to "Sweet Tooth" (.12a) about which in the guidebook says "It's good to be tall". I don't think I've read anything truer. I watched as Josh made his way to the first crux (a blank looking bulge) and spent quite a bit of time finding some holds to use, he finally did, but I was nervous because he was stretched tip to tip (for those of you who don'tknow hime, I think he's around 6'2"-ish while I'm 5'6"). He then spent some time on the second crux (which looked even harder) and then it was my turn. I don't think I've ever wallowed so much on a climb. After falling several times, I pulled on a draw to by-pass the first bit, then hung all over the second crux and again, pulled on a bolt. Both feeling entirely dejected, we cooled down on "Disincarnate" (.11a) which is pretty over-hung, but with huges holds. I made it through the pumpy bit, but failed at the bouldery mantle finish, Josh followed it clean.
We then hit Scott's Dairy freeze for obligatory caloric refill.
climbing isn't a hobby, its a lifestyle. its one step above bum and one below pimp.