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The Climbing Club • View topic - orgasmitron

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Sat Jul 20, 2019 11:45 am

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 Post subject: orgasmitron
PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 11:09 pm 
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ferous wolvineerian

Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 3:44 pm
Posts: 508
In the Wa Rock guidebook bryan burdo is quoted as saying this is the "best hard crack in washington" so it was on my list of things to check out. Scott and I drove back from wa pass saturday night and climbed this on sunday.

Image

Scott leading it,

Image

one of the few "rests"
Image

no move is particulary difficult but it is very overhanging and very pumpy. The crux is a face move at the very end which wouldn't that hard if you weren't insanely pumped even if your on tr and hang right before it.

To get an idea as to how overhanging it is here is Scott after lowering off, The route starts approximatly 8ft behind me when i take this photo making it overhang by ~ 30ft.


Image

We climbed that offwidth ralph did afterwards and Scott did hang out to dry with 1 fall which was really impress in the heat and minimal chalk and of course having already done organismtron.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:32 am 
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An Old Geezer
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 2:27 pm
Posts: 1182
Where is this "orgasmitron"?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:41 am 
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ferous wolvineerian

Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 3:44 pm
Posts: 508
wwII wall


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 1:11 pm 
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An Old Geezer
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 2:27 pm
Posts: 1182
Those bolts on the OW are kind lame, eh? You don't even need to bring gear.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 7:04 pm 
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ferous wolvineerian

Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 3:44 pm
Posts: 508
It is all bolts, 11d, no we don't have the endurance for that beast maybe next time.

I can deal with bolted offwidths at 38, the bolted offwidth at wa pass is a little more annoying.


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 Post subject: Enduro
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 4:42 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 11:42 am
Posts: 10
Location: Seattle
I've "been on" that route a few times now. A friend of mine does laps on it to build up enduro for harder climbs. The individual moves are not tough, but the burn halfway through is!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 2:47 pm 
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Alpine Bod
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 1:31 pm
Posts: 1330
Location: Los Americanos
Eric, way to get out on the rocks. There has gotz to be some hard craks closer to home though without the long walk. Anyways, nice send. Your boyfriend seems to do ok even when it's real hot out. That's a super asset.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 5:27 pm 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2004 1:26 pm
Posts: 293
Location: Boulder, CO
Checked this one out yesterday. Sure is steep. No hard moves except the finish, but no real rests either. Definitely one to go back for. Lapping this thing would be a great way to build endurance.


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