|The Climbing Club
|1/25/2015 - When Hell Freezes Over
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|Author:||Jerry Drescher [ Mon Feb 23, 2015 12:13 pm ]|
|Post subject:||1/25/2015 - When Hell Freezes Over|
go there and climb ice!
Full story: The town next to the Trondheim Airport is called Hell, and just outside of town is a nice big waterfall. A nice January cold spell had hit town, and another party of two had reported a successful ascent the day before, so we headed east to check it out.
We found the first pitch to look a little thin and wet for our tastes, so chose to bypass through some creative veggie scrambling to the right of the falls (turns out there was a gully to the left of the main falls that looked in good shape for climbing, but we didn't see it until the way down). Andreas took the second pitch, solidly leading about 30m of WI3+ish climbing before covering some easy ground to set up a belay at a tree. I took the next pitch, WI2+-ish for the most part, with one vertical step that felt a bit tougher (WI3?). Above the vertical step, the ice turned to thin veriglas and a few mixed moves were required - felt a bit spicy with no rock pro and my last placement being a stubby. But fortunately positive holds lead to an icy crack that was super solid for a tool, and then easy ground lead to a second tree belay.
The beginning of the next pitch was a big pile of snow with a nearly vertical face for about 3 meters, and with the temperatures now above freezing, climbing it seemed pretty questionable. Andreas went out on lead to see if he could climb around it to the right, but found thin unprotectable ice - so we decided to call it a day. Two pitches of ice after 30 minutes of driving and 15 minutes of walking still seemed like a good day.
I'm not sure of the exact name of the climb, but interested climbers can find information in the Trønder Rock guidebook.
A hex to protect a 1.5" crack would've been a nice addition in the condition we climbed in. In better conditions, a direct line up all ice would be possible. Short screws were nice as the ice on the second pitch was too thin for anything longer than a 13cm in most places.
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