The Climbing Club

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 4:54 am 
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UW Climber

Joined: Fri Oct 26, 2012 11:32 am
Posts: 52
Julian and I headed back to Drivdalen for another ice day yesterday. Conditions are great, many long and fat ice lines throughout the canyon. We were originally planning to climb Tøftfossen, a three to four pitch spectacular ice fall that goes to the top of the canyon, but a late start (apparently the train schedule was not created by ambitious climbers) and high winds made us change plans to checking out some roadside ice instead.

We started with Bjølla, which was fat and in great shape. Ice was quite variable, pleasantly soft in some places and quite brittle in some others. But the climbing was excellent, with a full 50 meters of sustained climbing of approximately WI4. We got down by walking off and one short rappel from a tree over a short rock band.

Next we attempted Brudetrusa, a fine ice line with an approach that consists solely of walking across the road. Unfortunately, the ice on the climb was quite brittle. Julian led about 10 meters, sending down bowling ball sized chunks between every stick. The belay was sheltered and well out of the way, so that wasn't an issue, but it became clear that continuing higher would result in sending large pieces of ice into the middle of the E6, one of Norway's main highways. This seemed like a bad idea, so Julian made a V-thread and we continued down the road to see what else was around.

About 2 km down the road, we spotted another nice looking line. We couldn't find it in the guidebook, but Julian was down to lead it anyway, so we headed up to give it a try. It ended up being about 40 meters of excellent ice, going at about WI3. At the top there were several thick trees, making for easy anchor construction and rappelling.

And pictures:
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Bjølla
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Bjølla again
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This is what happens when you don't look down fast enough when you're clearing ice
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You and me ice climbing in the dark...

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 2:16 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2010 7:36 pm
Posts: 142
The transformation continues...

Looks like fun! Probably a good call on not slinging ice straight onto the highway.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 6:27 am 
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Rodrigo
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Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:07 pm
Posts: 109
Keep it up with the posts. I'm living vicariously through you while I can't find ice partners of my own. Also, gotta love that brittle stuff...


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