The Climbing Club

Ekna, Nord Trolendag, Norway
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Author:  Jerry Drescher [ Sun Oct 19, 2014 1:48 am ]
Post subject:  Ekna, Nord Trolendag, Norway

With two days of sunny weather ahead, and then rain for who knows how long, I was eager to get outside. Anders, who I had met through the Facebook group Klatrevenner i Trondheim, had Fridays off, and was interested in getting out for two days before the rain hit Saturday night. My boss was nice enough to agree to let me trade off work in the office on Friday for work at home on Sunday, and plans were made. We decided to head to Ekna, a series of cliffs on the shore of Trondheimfjord. Anders is from Germany and lives in a small RV near the NTNU campus, so we took his "house" up north and had a comfortable crash pad for Friday night.

While sun was in the forecast, it was still cold - below freezing on Friday and barely above Saturday. We took a leisurely start from Trondheim, and after an icy and slippery approach, reached the crag around noon. Our guidebook predicted afternoon sun at the crag, which was probably true in the summer, but we only caught brief periods of sun at the top of the climbs. No hands rests (and occasional hangdogging) were used to warm numb fingers, and hot tea and big belay jackets were essential during off the wall time. But the climbing was good, with a mix of slabs, crimpy faceclimbing, and challenging roofs and overhangs. The grading also had a great variety, ranging from Norwegian 4- to 8+. Anders is a strong climber, and took on some formidable 7+, not entirely dry, climbs, after warning me to "watch for falling Germans". I mostly kept it moderate, but was convinced to take on a 7- that ended up being one of my favorite climbs of the trip.

Enough boring words, time for pictures!
Frosty approach along the fjord
Fjord sunset

Approach notes: Easy and scenic.
Gear notes: Puffy and thermos. Everything at Ekna is bolted. Lowering off fixed gear is common here, so check rings for notches.

Hope you all have a short shoulder season.

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