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The Climbing Club • View topic - College Rock (near Boston)

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Sun Sep 22, 2019 6:10 am

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 4:27 pm 
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Rodrigo
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Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:07 pm
Posts: 109
This TR is my way of coping with no longer living in Washington and missing the Cascades. It is also a call for attention from my climbing friends that I miss. Come visit. There will be climbing. I've been out here for two weeks now trying to find climbing partners. As you might expect, with little climbing on Cape Cod it isn't too easy to find partners. Finally I did and we went to College Rock. This is a sweet little crag about 200' long and up to 40' tall. It is about a 30-45 second walk from the car to the rock but there wasn't a single other group of climbers there. In fact, with the exception of a couple guys that came in to boulder for a bit, we had the park entirely to ourselves. This place is also close to Boston. In fact, the Boston Marathon starts in the town near this crag.

The climbing here is lovely, steep granite. Some of the routes take pro but many don't. Setting up a top rope is easy in all cases, but can be made easier with a typical rack. Having climbed there, I wouldn't plan to lead too much. The climbs were all had rather stiff grades (certainly stiffer than Index). In fact, I read a description of one of the 5.8s that mentioned a short 5.10 sequence (which felt like a solid 5.10 sequence to me). Some of the other 5.9s were really quite difficult with overhangs, thing face moves, and bouldery starts. I'm only mentioning this so that one goes in ready to get spanked at grades that are normally comfortable.

College Rock
Image

A taste of the climbing. A "5.7" starts in this corner, moves to the face on what feels like a solid V2 bouldering move, moves up the slab, over the roof, and finished on face moves. It's fun and certainly harder than some of the 10a/b climbs in Mazama.
Image

Anyway, it's not the Cascades but the climbing was lovely and I recommend it for those visiting family in the area. The area gets sun in the fall/winter in the afternoon when it has warmed up. There was frost here in the morning but we were comfortably climbing on the rock in the afternoon.

More pictures if you are . Now come visit.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 5:35 pm 
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Raging Alpoholic
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Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:15 pm
Posts: 812
Hayley and I checked out Rose Ledge in central Massachusetts too. As you'd expect, it wasn't the cascades, but offered enough to entertain us for a day. Hayley (my sister) is still waiting to see if she'll stay in Baltimore, or move next year (Boston and Dartmouth are possibilities too). You might want to get in touch with her next spring, she's been all over random crags between West Virginia and Boston.

I'm excited to check out the ice climbing just north of you in NH and Vermont. It looks pretty awesome.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:29 pm 
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Rodrigo
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Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:07 pm
Posts: 109
How was Rose Ledges? I wanted to head up there this weekend but the forecast wasn't too great and I couldn't find a partners that could commit to the extra driving. That said, if we get another nice fall day I wouldn't mind that trip.

I'd love to hear what she has to say about the climbing around here. I also agree on the comments about the ice. I have no experience climbing ice but I'm going to try to embrace it and do a bit of it while I am here. Oddly enough, I have as many people here that are strictly ice climbers as I have folks that rock climb.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 5:38 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:34 am
Posts: 324
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
I'll be in Boston next week...don't know if getting out of the city will work but good to know this is around. :)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:22 pm 
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experienced hiker of the climbing club
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Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2002 6:39 pm
Posts: 1945
Location: Bashing Brush
Hopkinton is about 20 minutes from where my father lives, so the next time Michelle and/or I are on the east coast and it isn't wet or snowy we should check this out with you.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 6:54 am 
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Rodrigo
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Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:07 pm
Posts: 109
Sarah: If you do make it out let me know.

Brian, Michelle, and Jim: Sounds lovely, I'm looking forward to it.


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