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The Climbing Club • View topic - Hyalite Canyon Feb 15th-18th

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Thu Jun 20, 2019 4:51 am

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 12:03 am 
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Raging Alpoholic
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Kris, Dan, Svenja and I took advantage of the long weekend and made the drive out to Bozeman in search of ice. Hyalite Canyon is said to have some of the most concentrated ice in the country and sure enough we had more ice than the time to climb it (not a bad dilemma to have).

A few tips for those interested in a Hyalite trip:
Stay at the Ramada. It’s inexpensive. The four of us split a huge room for $82 each (stayed three nights). You get free breakfast (saves time in the morning so that you can get to the crags). Get a ground floor room with an exterior door (there’s a ton of gear to dry out every day). There’s a hot tub and a 90’ water slide. It’s silly, but oh so fun after a day of ice.

Post-climb waterslide:
Image

Take the “red-eye” drive out. We left Seattle at 1am Friday morning and were in Bozeman at noon (10hrs + 1 hour time change). We were in the Canyon to warm up on the ice our first afternoon there. With 4 people to split the drive, it wasn’t bad. We drove home Monday at 1pm (after a morning ice session) and with the time change in our favor now, we were back in Seattle at 10pm.

Have a post-climbing beer at the Bozeman Brewery. No food, but great beer.

Climbing:
Day 1 we spent the afternoon at the Genesis 1 area, just a 10 minute approach and we were at the ice. I started out on Willow Gully, a nice WI2/3 just to the left of G1 and Kris set up a WI3/4 top rope on the left-hand side of G1.

Day 2 we went back up to the Genesis area. This time we continued on passed G1. Svenja and I each led up Lower Green Sleeves (WI3), while Kris led up a WI2 route to practice placing screws (Ice 101?). Svenja and I led up Lower Green Sleeves a second time. I needed practice placing screws on lead, I’m painfully slow right now. And if I think that I’m slow while I’m in the middle of leading I can only imagine how boring (and cold) it must be for my belayers. Seriously, thanks guys! From the top of Lower Green Sleeves we hiked up to Hangover, a fun WI3/3+ with a great view of the canyon. Ice 101 paid off for Kris as he took the lead on the second step of Hangover. Well done!

Svenja leads Lower Green Sleeves:
Image

Kris climbing Lower Green Sleeves:
Image

Me leading the first pitch of Hangover (photo by Kris):
Image

Kris leading the final pitch of Hangover:
Image

Day 3 brought snow and wind, your standard winter weather. We were pretty spoiled by our first two days of sunshine. We went up to the Mummy Cooler area. The plan had been to start out with Fat Chance and Thin Chance, then continue up to Mummy Cooler 2. We ended up just spending the day on these two climbs. I led up Fat Chance (WI3/3+) and Svenja put up Thin Chance (WI3+/4) in fat condition. We all took several top rope laps on these routes finding more challenging variations of each. Dan and Kris practiced screw placement again on steeper terrain. I decided to test out the Nomics (instead of my old BD Vipers). Big mistake, I’ve been converted and these tools are pricy, damn!

Dan on Fat Chance:
Image

Me on Thin Chance (photo by Dan):
Image

Day 4 we had another 10 hour drive ahead of us. We got up early and went back to Genesis 1. Svenja put up a WI3/4 line on the left of Genesis wall and we spent the morning top-roping the two steep WI5 pillars. Once my forearms were too beat to hang on to my tools any longer, it was about time to head back. One last thing though, after 3 days of climbing (Dan’s first ice climbing trip ever) he was ready for his first lead. Back to Ice 101 for some screw placement practice on the sharp end. We left Bozeman at 1pm and with the time change on our side now, we were back in Seattle at 10pm.

Svenja leading the left side of G1:
Image

Steep WI5 pillars on G1:
Image

Thanks all for the trip! Looking forward to a return trip next year!


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 5:19 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:34 am
Posts: 324
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Great pictures! Looks like fun lodging too. :)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:10 am 
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The Pub Czar
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Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 12:38 am
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Location: too far from a pint.
waterslides are aid!
no-- i mean awesome. waterslides are awesome.

looks like you guys had tons of fun!

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good judgment comes from experience;
experience comes from bad judgment.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:19 am 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:32 pm
Posts: 115
Great photos!! Looks like an awesome trip. I'll have to make it ice climbing eventually. ;)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:30 pm 
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Rodrigo
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Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:07 pm
Posts: 109
Good work folks. I'm sorry I wasn't able to join you. I will soon attempt to make up for it with a trip report/reconnaissance mission in Chile.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:18 pm 
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stick clip
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Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2010 11:43 am
Posts: 123

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"There were people out there putting themselves in places they weren't supposed to be…and I knew right then that I wanted to be there too." -180 Degrees South


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