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The Climbing Club • View topic - Sport Climbing in Minnesota

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:10 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:40 am
Posts: 9
A friend from UW visited me in my native Wisconsin and I had to show her the best (and only) sport climbing rock that the Midwest has to offer.

The party consisted of Samantha who lives in San Francisco, my hometown climbing partner Mike, and myself. We arrived at Barn Bluffs in Red Wing, Minnesota at 11 to hit up some bolted routes. I had been here quite a few times before with Mike so we were familiar with most of the easier (5.7-5.10a) routes.

I started on Cirque Jour D’Affile, an easy 5.7 warm-up. Flashed it and the other two top roped it.

We then moved over to “too low for zero,” “year of the ankle,” and one other unnamed climb, all in the range of 5.9. No falls were taken. I was surprised by the variety of these routes. Though they were all right next to each other they each offered different moves.


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Mike on Too Low for Zero

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Me on Year of the Ankle sporting the classic climbing pose.

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Sam on the unnamed 5.9+

I moved over to “Micro Balls,” a 5.10a and had to deal with a lot of stupid jokes directed at me from the other two. I had to take a rest because I messed up the beta on the last move, which was really frustrating. Probably the best climb of the day though.

We finished on a Three Star 5.9 called two tone Zephyr that was a lot a fun. A mix of crack climbing and a few pinches. The 2nd bolt was a little too high for my comfort but it was still a good climb, not too difficult.

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Finishing Two Tone Zephyr

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A friendly fox took a nap next to us on our last climb.

This is my first trip report. Gotta start somewhere…


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 8:06 pm 
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Rodrigo
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Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:07 pm
Posts: 109
As a native Minnesotan let me first say that I approve. That said, there is also a bit of sport climbing near Sandstone in Southwestern Minnesota as well. The area is called Robinson Park. There is also another smaller area near Rochester that has some bolted routes. In general though my impression is that stuff is mostly gear or a mix of bolted and trad routes.

Anyway, well done. I really need to bring gear next time I go home. I've wanted to head up to Palisade Head and over to Taylors Falls to get some climbing in while home. The Minnesota Climbers Association (http://www.mnclimbers.org/) has links to pretty good information covering the climbing opportunities for anyone else up for climbing in Minnesota.

How did you do with the heat? It's been so terrible just thinking about going home makes me sweat.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 7:13 am 
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UW Climber

Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:40 am
Posts: 9
Good to hear from another Midwesterner! I will definitely have to check out Robinson Park and the Rochester routes. If you want, next time you plan on heading home give me a shout and let's see if our schedules overlap. Maybe hit the crags together.

Regarding the weather, it was in the low 90s but all of our climbs were well shaded which made it rather pleasant. Lots of chalk to keep the hands dry though.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 12:00 pm 
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Rodrigo
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Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:07 pm
Posts: 109
Your Midwest is showing. In my world there is nothing pleasant about a humid 90 degrees regardless of the shade. It makes climbing along Lake Superior sound so nice.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 12:16 pm 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:18 pm
Posts: 216
Location: Warm sunny rock


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