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The Climbing Club • View topic - Self Rescue at Mountaineer's Wall at Magnuson Park

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 2:49 pm 
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Dr. Crevasse
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After a brief stop at Diva Expresso for coffee and scone, I made my way over to the Mountaineer's Wall at Magnuson Park. It's the first time I'd ever been there and was quite impressed. After crossing the fake talus field, I made it the base of the wall. Veronica and I drank coffee as we waited for others to arrive. Next Veronica put up a top rope on the middle of the left hand side of the wall. I did a lap on it, and by that point we had a quorum. We started out be going over knots that would be necessary for self rescue: figure-8 on a bite, clove hitch, prussik, munter hitch, and mule hitch.

After this, Frank and I went over to a top rope, so I could make sure I understood what I read and practice with a weighted rope on escaping the belay. This went smooth. We called everyone over, and I demonstrated escaping the belay. I helped a couple of people practice while other folks went off to practice other things. After escaping the belay, Veronica and I practiced ascending the rope and tandem rappels. I'd never done a tandem rappel before and there were some shenanigans to get everything sorted out. But when the time came to rappel, it worked out just fine. We went up and did it a second time, with Veronica controlling the rappel.

Thanks to everyone who came out yesterday, especially those who shared their knowledge. I'd like to do this again on another mediocre weather day to give myself more practice at these techniques. I'd love to hear what other people were working on and see photos. I know at least Obadiah had the camera at the ready.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 3:29 pm 
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Thanks for initiating this Jim! I'd definitely like to do it again on a mediocre weather day.

There's a useful online resource for rescue methods/strategies at planetfear.com- a series of five articles. Here's the first one:http://www.planetfear.com/articles/Staying_Alive_1_the_tools_for_escape_655.html
The links to subsequent articles don't seem to work, but you can find them all if you just search for 'Staying alive' in the articles section of the website. It's coming from a British climbing perspective, so there are a few things that may seem unusual, but I think it's still be generally useful. It's not perfect step by step instruction, but it gives you enough that you should be able to work out what's going on with the different techniques.
(cultural translations: italian hitch=munter hitch; french prusik=autoblock prusik. British climbers often build belay anchors with the climbing ropes as we're usually climbing in pairs/not leaving ropes on the crag/pitch for more than a leader/second sequence - this is why you'll see instructions for tying off/making a belay with single point attachment by tying off anchor ropes with a kleimheist)


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 8:56 am 
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Alpine Slogger
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 10:26 am 
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Dr. Crevasse
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:17 pm 
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receiving spoon
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This was fantastic practice! I'm eager to do this again. Thanks Jim and Brian P. for showing me the ropes (pun intended).


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 12:39 am 
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Longshanks
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http://staff.washington.edu/obadiah/Pic ... index.html

Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 10:02 am 
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Wow - Veronika looks sequentially stoned and dead! Nice work bringing her down the wall safely Jim! :drink:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 12:38 pm 
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Don't feel too bad, Veronika. At least you didn't get caught on camera checking out Brian's ass like Lucas did. :lol:

All in all, a spectacularly good day for photos all around!


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 1:18 pm 
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receiving spoon
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 3:05 pm 
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