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The Climbing Club • View topic - Dolomites

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
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 Post subject: Dolomites
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 7:00 am 
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This year we again headed to the dolomites. http://www.astro.washington.edu/roskar/ ... iti06.html

:lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:58 am 
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Wow! I can see why you went back again:

Image

I'm curious why you carried a hammer. Did you place any pins? How long were the approaches to most of the climbs? Did you stay in huts, or camp out the whole time?

That little girl with the cell phone is adorable :D


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 11:34 am 
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ha! why carry a hammer to climb an often climbed classic... this was, coincidentally, the topic of many debates during our week there. The routes we climbed are mostly equipped with pins, where pins are needed. The rock is pretty good quality and often you can place friends and nuts. The guidebook we had is extra detailed, so not only is there a pin if one is drawn in the topo, but usually you can also count on it being exactly in the spot where it is drawn. Every once in a while, a pin can become unreliable. Maybe the crux is unprotectable by any other means - what do you do if you get there and someone before you happened to fall on it and it pulled? What if you stray off route and have to make an anchor where there aren't any features suitable for friends, slings etc.? The route was longer than anything either of us had climbed before, so we felt that we needed some extra leeway in case something went wrong (we only carried them on the last route we did). I'll start saving on weight and bringing less gear when I've put a lot more ascents behind me, for right now I prefer to have my options open.

Approaches in the dolomites are something else... our longest was 45 minutes through a picturesque forest... most are about 30 minutes. We camped in a camping area near Cortina that features hot showers, a laundry machine, grocery store, bar etc. Not really dirtbagging it at all.

Yeah, the little girl is extra cute. This was also her second time in the dolomites (she's 18 months old). Her mother is pretty inspirational - she climbed her first 5.13a a few months after giving birth....


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 12:53 pm 
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An Old Geezer
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Not criticizing about the hammer, just honestly curious. From my limited experience with limestone-ish rock, I figured pro would be a little funky.

Were there any old wooden chocks or other ancient gear on the routes you climbed? I've read stories of Italian climbers in the Dolomites carrying entire racks of wooden pro.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 4:38 pm 
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Last September, a friend and I climbed this route on Tofana di Rozes. We chose this route because it was on an arete and we found the route finding in the Dolomites non trivial. On the easier pitches, the fixed gear is pretty far apart, so it's easy to get off. We had a guided party (one guide and a couple) behind and beside us for most of the route. He was fast and they weren't, so we were together the whole climb. Helpful when we got off route, though.

Cool climb.

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 4:56 pm 
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ralph, I didn't think you were criticizing, I was just explaining our reasoning. :) There were no wooden chocks here, I think probably because these routes are very popular. They were climbed 60-70 years ago though, so apart from a rope around their waist, who knows if the first ascencionists used any pro at all...


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2006 8:39 am 
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 5:55 pm 
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Hehe... no no, they are the UIAA grades. VI+ = 6a = 5.10a. So V+ ~ 5.7-5.8 and VII+ = 6b+ = 5.10d.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 8:51 pm 
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That looks sweet Rok. Thanks for sharing the pictures, sounds like a great time.


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