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The Climbing Club • View topic - Bouldering at Font-Part 1

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Wed Jul 24, 2019 12:15 am

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 1:16 am 
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Jer-Bear

Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2003 11:45 am
Posts: 314
Location: Seattle
Ok, SInce no one has posted on this thread ina bout a mont and I have about 1 hour before I have to go catch my plane back to Seattle from Paris, I figure I'll share a bit about my weekends out to Fontainebleau over the month I spent here in Paris. I can't add any pics, so if you want to see what I have, PM me or drop by the IMA gym.

First off, I have to note that Font taught me that I am a V0 climber, it is a rather humbling place to climb.

Day 1
My first excursion into the forest of Fontainebleau was tons of fun. I didn't have any info on how to get anywhere except "the Cuvier can be reached 5k from the Bois-le-Roi train station". So I got off the train and started walking, and eventually knocked on the window of a car parked by the side of the road to ask directions. The driver happened to be a historian and explorer of the forest in his spare time, so he took it upon himself as a Frenchman to take me there (he said it was his rsponsibility).
I got out of the car and walked up to some boulders and with no clue as to where I was, began climbing (or at least trying). I soon met a young french climber and and aussi who had a pad and let me climb with them. One of the first problems they put me on was a highball 20-25ft tall finger crack (V0- in the book) with an intimmidating downclimb off of slopers on the backside.
The aussi (who said he was out of shape) proceded to onsight several V5-7 which I took a shot at and fell saveral times.
I then got directions from them on how to get back to the train station and began the hike. Somehow I changed trails along the way and came out on the highway next to 2 big booty black girls in tight jeans just standing there staring at me. Quickly understanding the situation, I got one of them to point in the direction of Bois-le-Roi and then I bolted before they could ask me if I was looking for a good time.
On my way back I came across the Rocher Canon where I found and incredible problem that starts with an overhang on jugs and makes several muscly moves up and around the bulge on jugs with crappy feet. I couldn't quite send it, but I got most of the moves worked out.
It was only a 20min walk to get back to the train station and back to Paris.

Day 2
On my second trip out, I went with Lisa Walters (an instructor from the ICC), this time without the route-finding errors. Lisa and I went straight to the Cuvier where I showed her a dew of the climbs that were fun last time i was there. When we came to the highball finger crack, we met and young climber who had brought along his parents as trainers. His mother read the guidebook and told him which problems he hadn't sent yet while his dad spotted him and moved the bouldering pad. They became our official guides for the day and took us to what they thought were some of the best problems in the area.
One was a 1-move wonder throw off of a 3-finger slopy pocket and a side pull crimp infront of the body with the left foot almost directly off to the side in a pocket and the right foot flagging up and over a bulge to a jug (I'm going to try to re-create this one in the gym), this one also goes at V0.
They also put me on my first V0+/V1-. IT is a quick 2 moves on jugs to the top of the boulder and then a travers on terible feet and crappy clopers around the corner with a throw to a jug at the end. The only hazard is that there is a tree/bush dricetly behind you as you throw, so when I missed the move, I fell into the branches of this bush (thankfully our guides had put the bouldering pad in the branches so I didn't go too far).
On our way back to the train station, I found the problem I really liked at the Canon and worked all the moves with Lisa.
Another great day.

Ok, back to sea-town, I'll finish up my last 2 days at font sometime soonish.

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climbing isn't a hobby, its a lifestyle. its one step above bum and one below pimp.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 11:12 am 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2003 5:29 pm
Posts: 474
Location: U District in Seattle
Good to hear that you got to Font! It sounds like you had an awesome time, I will definitely stop by the gym when it re-opens to check out some pictures. And re-creating classic Font boulder problems in the IMA definitely sounds like a good idea!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 10:35 pm 
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Jer-Bear

Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2003 11:45 am
Posts: 314
Location: Seattle
I am very lazy, which is why I never finished the TR, but truth be told, not much else happened. I met some Dutch dudes who were dismayed they couldn't climb hard routes in their tennis-shoes- but that was probly the most exciting part.
I did, however, finally get pics online, so without further ado, here are a few pictures from Fontainebleau!
PS- I need to apologize, I forgot to turn these around before I put them online, so a few are sideways.

Image
This was one of the first problems I got on- some French guy said "oh, there's an easy one over here". It was V0 in the guidebook, but was a super-thin finger crack- maybe 5.10 if it were longer, or maybe .9, oh I don't know, I don't crack climb. The worst part about this was how scary tall it was. I didn't have a crash pad either, I just kind of hoped I didn't fall

Image
Here is my attempt at a THF dyno. I don't remember the exact grade (maybe 6b-7b in French climbing garble). I didn't make it very far- lots of sitting on the ground. But look how intense I am....

Image
This is Agatha. She came out with me to Font one day. This is a kind of cool thing I found where I could do the first two moves (on overhanging jugs) but nothing else. Agatha didn't really like the muscley moves, so she used the A0 step-ladder (aka, my hands) to get up there. Also notice the daisy flower socks. She did not have climbing shoes, so she used my second pair which were slightly too big. I believe this style will find its way into a boulderer's apparel, along with tooq and prana capris.

Image
The best crack bouldering I've ever done (that means in relation to the first picture I posted). This one was rated V2, which proves my theory that the French are really just afraid of crack climbs and find them too difficult.

Image
The one and only V1 I sent at Font!!! I was so proud of myself. I tried it 2 weekends in a row and got shut down. Then on the third weekend it was raining at the Cuvier (main bouldering area), so I started walking back to the train station when it suddenly got nice!! I was pissed, so, as I was walking back, I came across my V1 (at a different boulder field) and sent it in ANGER (as if someone forced Jagermeister on me). Then I was happy. I just chilled and ate my chocolate croissant. :) ah la vie est belle...

Image
And a closing picture of my incredibly muscular back (accentuated by strategic back hair to emphasize the contours).


So there's my photo diary. Hope you had fun!

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climbing isn't a hobby, its a lifestyle. its one step above bum and one below pimp.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 12:43 am 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2003 5:29 pm
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Merde! Tous les tableaux sont trop grands! Comment est-ce que tu dit "resize" en francais?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 1:45 am 
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Jer-Bear

Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2003 11:45 am
Posts: 314
Location: Seattle
"resizer", bien sur! yeah, anyone know how to downsize photos?

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climbing isn't a hobby, its a lifestyle. its one step above bum and one below pimp.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 9:52 am 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2003 5:29 pm
Posts: 474
Location: U District in Seattle
I have adobe photoshop elements, and it has a "Save for the web" option which resizes them. Otherwise there are probably free image resizing programs you can download. Nice photos though, I will have to get there sometime soon.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 11:59 am 
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That goat computes better than me!
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 1:52 pm
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I recommend Irfanview.

You can rotate your photos too.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 12:02 pm 
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Jer-Bear

Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2003 11:45 am
Posts: 314
Location: Seattle
yeah cam,you should get there. i will be living in france next year so if anyone wants to come climb in france, let me know, we'll try to work something out!

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