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 Post subject: UIAA Gear Failure Videos
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:15 am 
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Dr. Crevasse
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While eating breakfast, I watched three short videos on gear testing. Some of the failures are surprising others made intuitive sense to me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xparZFsBS40&feature=player_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtq51h6zcvY&feature=player_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3Cg8homvoU&feature=player_embedded

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:22 am 
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experienced hiker of the climbing club
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The aluminum hex failure seems particularly surprising. Who would expect cord to cut through metal?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:56 am 
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UW Climber
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Do you know what knot was shown last, in the 3rd video? It was interesting to see it keep turning itself over rather than failing. Was is the same knot as the one shown right before it that did fail?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:14 am 
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Longshanks
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the two knots shown in that last video were an overhand (EDK) and a figure-8 used to join two ropes. The "turning" that you saw is the feared failure mode of both knots. Imagine it "turning" right off the ends of the ropes! As shown in the video, the overhand turns less before tightening down, which is why it is considered superior.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:31 am 
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The Shepherd
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Interesting videos. Do they provide any data on the breaking strengths or did they measure that?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:55 am 
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Dr. Crevasse
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Kris Haskins wrote:
Interesting videos. Do they provide any data on the breaking strengths or did they measure that?


Sadly they do not. I think the numbers would have been really interesting though.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 11:02 am 
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The Shepherd
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On the same topic, this is probably useful and relevant as well (for people like me :)):

http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/H ... Beware.pdf

Page 6 of this is a nice graphical representation of this.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:17 pm 
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Dr. Crevasse
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I read that paper recently too. Also something to consider, even if you are lighter, is the added effect of the weight you're carrying on an alpine climb (ice ax, crampons, sleeping gear, cook gear, etc.).

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:44 pm 
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One Armed Wonder
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crazy how much some of those knots walked as they were being pulled. this is something that every climber should look at unless they've seen it first hand (which hopefully hasn't happened :shock: ).

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