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The Climbing Club • View topic - Mt Arrowsmith, Bumps/Nose Route 8/15/15

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 12:38 pm 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:18 pm
Posts: 216
Location: Warm sunny rock
If you find yourself with a free day while on Vancouver Island, Mt Arrowsmith is a worthwhile short climb. There are a bunch of routes up it.

Yesterday Brian, Dom, & I opted for the Bumps/Nose route, which maximized our time moving over rock. The rock was solid and grippy, the trail is a bit eroded but not too brushy, and our unhurried ascent took about 6 hours car-to-car. I hear that there are spectacular views from the top, but we were stuck in a cloud all day, so got no views except for the very phallic structures on the summit (radio repeaters maybe?). This is the sort of climb that would be mobbed if it was in the Seattle area, but we only very briefly saw one other party.

The on SummitPost are good- remember to switch your trip odometer to km. There is active logging on the road system- be aware that a big logging truck could come barreling toward you anytime, even on weekends. I'm guessing that the hiking directions would be straightforward with decent visibility, but we could only see 30 m away most of the day, so we were glad to have a little compass and a "map" with us. (Pro tip: an iPhone photo of google maps off a computer screen can save the day.)

The climb is described as 3rd class scrambles over 5 or so false summits (the Bumps), then a pitch each of 4th & 5th class climbing near the true summit (the Nose). We found the 4th & 5th class pitches not much tougher than the rest of the scrambling, and felt silly for having pulled out a rack, rope, and climbing shoes for it. The 4th & 5th class pitches are both less than 30m, so could be combined on the way up. There are shiny bolted chain anchors for rappelling at the top of each "pitch", for 30m rappels. I'd suggest that most people who are comfortable scramblers solo on the way up, and rappel only the 5th class section, downclimbing the 4th class section. Approach shoes or boots are fine for the climbing. If you did want to protect the 5th class pitch on the way up, a set of nuts and cams .3"-.75" would do it.

I only took one photo, which I'll probably be too lazy to upload into a forum-compatible format, but maybe Brian will post a few photos.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 9:49 pm 
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Rodrigo
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Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:07 pm
Posts: 109
Canada, eh? Glad you made it out up there. Looks like you caught the same weather as I did down here on that day.


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