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The Climbing Club :: View topic - Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress 09/14/13
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Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress 09/14/13
http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=7247
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Author:  Dylan Price [ Wed Sep 18, 2013 11:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress 09/14/13

Jon and I climbed the NE Buttress of Slesse last Friday and Saturday. Instead of a blow by blow analysis I'll just document a few of the best 'moments' of the climb.



First, don't try to drive too far down the Nesakwatch River road unless you have some clearance. We parked about 2km down this road after 6 hairy crossings of above ground culverts. I scraped up the bottom of my car pretty good a couple times.

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Hiking in. Whoah, that's Mt Rexford? That's a lot of granite, when are we coming back?

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Don't go up there Jon! It's the wrong one! Well, we rushed into making the trip happen late Thursday night, so with no topo map (besides the one for the actual climb) and no good approach description, we had a bit of a detour. See . Cresting the East ridge, we were like, hey, that kind of looks a lot more like the Northeast ridge over there... it was a 'Glacier Peak moment'.

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Our bivy ledge was quite luxurious. Right at the start of roped climbing, so we knew we had a long day ahead of us.

No picture but we went the way where you go up a 10a pitch. The beginning is a nice clean finger to small hands crack. Nelson says small wires are useful but I have no idea why. The next section after the crack looks like loose and scary face climbing but is reasonable. I almost dislodged a big block so I was pretty scared on this section. Climbing with a pack makes it harder!

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Right after finishing the long simul block in the middle of the route. We ran into this nice couple who had passed us on an alternate route while we were going up the way with the 10a.

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Jon out of sight on a 60m 5.7 pitch (if you look close the rope goes up to the skyline and beyond). This pitch and the few around it had just amazingly fun rock, big hold face climbing interspersed with short but nice cracks. We sent hard with our best Sharma impressions and Jon had his million dollar Volkswagen commercial idea: a shiny Passat cruising effortlessly through country scenery, periodic cuts to Chris Sharma, shirtless, pulling huge moves. 'pssaaat! PPSAAAAT!'.

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Jon coming up one of the final pitches with the whole route stretched out below us. Beautiful!

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Summit at 4:15pm. Started climbing at 6:30am. Whew!

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Headed down.

Now compare. From the south (not this trip):
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From the north:
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Canadian and American Border Peaks look way more badass from the north.

Fueled by Jon's 'call Lisa' warpspeed drive, we blasted the crossover descent and were back at the road a bit after 10pm, back at the car at 11:30 after a long road walk.

Great way to end the summer! Thanks to Jon for making me feel good about my food choices (he didn't) and being an awesome partner.

Author:  Brendan Smith [ Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:22 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress 09/14/13

Wow you guys! Impressive! What an amazing climb, glad you were able to pull it off.

Author:  Ethan Welty [ Thu Sep 19, 2013 2:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress 09/14/13

Wow, well done, fellas! Looks amazing.
(I agree with your assessment - the Border Peaks definitely look more badass from the North. Guess I know what I have to do now.)

Author:  Jonathan Toner [ Thu Sep 19, 2013 7:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress 09/14/13

Psaaat! Great trip and a great way to end the summer. I think Dylan underscored our 'Glacier Peak' moment. We ended up going all the way to the top of the wrong pocket glacier, searched around for an hour or so, trying to make sense of where the route could be. Then we decided to just get up on the ridge, and hopefully intersect the route. One pitch up we saw the real ridge, which was super obvious. So we then had to make two manky rappels back down, walk down the cirque, then do some heinous bushwhacking traverse, which I was really surprised went, then go up the right pocket glacier. We had just enough time left in the day to find a bivy site!

Also, the crossover descent is the way to go. Wow. So fast, so easy, so well flagged. You could stand in one place and count 5 trail markers in front of you. I'm more used to flagging every quarter mile or so. The raps were also very nice, though downclimbing the rotten gullys was a bit tedious. Slesse has one hell of a decent. Just to get off the summit tower took 2 hours. Then we took 3.5 hours down to the road. That was flying cause the route description says 5 hours. We finally ended up in Seattle around 330 AM in a zombified state.

Author:  Carolina [ Thu Sep 19, 2013 11:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress 09/14/13

Nice going, guys! Quite a finish to the summer, and good job making it back to Seattle in one piece - that's the point when a bonus trailhead bivy starts to sound more appealing! Although, I guess the spousal phone call isn't possible from the trailhead...

Author:  Chris Bassett [ Sun Sep 22, 2013 9:26 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress 09/14/13

Solid work. That climb looks amazing from Rexford. There is a ton of granite over in the Rexford area and I'd definitely recommend a trip up there.

Author:  Heather Whitney [ Tue Sep 24, 2013 8:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress 09/14/13

Yeah! Go Dylan and Jon! That looks FUN!

Author:  Valerie Wall [ Fri Sep 27, 2013 7:44 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress 09/14/13

Awesome!!! Day 2 sounds like one long day, impressive.

Author:  Jason Kowitz [ Wed Oct 02, 2013 4:13 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress 09/14/13

This...is awesome! Damn boys that's one scenic climb. Strong work.

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