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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 7:18 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2011 2:09 pm
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Abstract: Hannah and I did the patriotic thing this July 4th, and drove to Canada. We climbed some really fun routes, Hannah continued gaining confidence leading trad, and I successfully didn't re injure my elbow. As usual, we mostly failed to take pictures of the actual climbs. I don't know how you guys remember to get your cameras out in the middle of a fun climb. Also, highlining.

After leaving Seattle around 9 Thursday morning, crossing the newly rebuilt bridge across the Skagit river, waiting 30 mins at the border, and other adventures, we arrived in Squamish to find the Chief climbers camp ground already packed by early Thursday afternoon. Apparently we weren't the only climbers to put together a 4 day weekend. We managed to sort of slide into a spot by setting up our tent on a site that claimed they would be leaving that same day. It turned out they weren't leaving, but they also turned out to be camping under the radar, and were happy to have us officially occupy the site since we would let them stay on as well.

After setting up camp, we set out to climb Slot Machine, which is on the Bulletheads formation right above the campsite. Extremely enjoyable 5.8 crack climbing on the first pitch, although the first move to gain the crack is the crux and is unprotected. The "tree belay" that is mentioned in the guide is now a freshly scraped up log at the bottom of the climb; a party that rapped past us at the top of the first pitch claimed that they heard the tree fall as they were approaching the climb. Fortunately, somebody had previously added bolts to the anchor. Hannah led pitch 2. The top of pitch 2 is a little confusing, as it goes past a big tree with a bunch of rap slings before reaching the bolted anchor. From the tree, a few easy but dirty moves bring you to the real anchor. From the top of slot machine, we scrambled up another 30 feet and found a nice bolted slab climb to do, then headed back down.

Friday, we slept a little later than intended and cancelled our plans to climb something on the Apron since it seemed like it would be a miserable experience in the afternoon sun. Instead, we headed over to Shannon Falls. We climbed Klahanie crack, then started up Skywalker. I lead the first two pitches, which were like a remembered then (fun). Hannah led pitch 3, which turned out to be trickier than I remembered, but she persevered to complete her hardest trad lead yet. After that, we alternated the next two pitches to the top. On the walk out, Hannah decided to try leading Klahanie crack, and then proceeded to hike the climb with no hesitation, placing solid gear. This brings us to our sole climbing picture from the weekend:

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On Saturday I got up early and hiked to the top of the chief to meet up with some locals who were planning on setting up the North Gulley highline. It turned out to be probably the biggest highline day ever (so far) on the Chief, with two lines rigged, and tens of people walking (or at least giving it a try). The lines have incredible exposure straight down the north gulley, and looking out at Mt. Garibaldi. On side of the highline is at the top of the ridge that the Angels Crest route ascends. When my elbow is feeling up to it, I need to climb that route, it looks spectacular. Hannah hiked up later in the day to say hi, and got these pictures:

Turning to face the exposure:

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Long way down:

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After an incredible day taking in the exposure on the highlines, I stuck around to watch the sunset and crows, which were freakin majestic:

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Sunday morning we weren't feeling like trying another multipitch adventure, so we headed over to Smoke Bluffs for some cragging, After a few enjoyable climbs a thunderstorm rolled in and cut the day a little short. There was a mini traffic jam getting out of Squamish as thousands of climbers ended their weekend simultaneously:

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Overall, Squamish gets a big thumbs up:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 5:26 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2010 8:01 pm
Posts: 115
Location: UW, Seattle
that crack that Hannah's on looks amazing!
omg... flawless

what size? how steep?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 12:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:34 am
Posts: 324
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Klahanie Crack...sooooo beautiful and perfect. <3 Looks like a great trip-love the highline pics!


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