[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4770: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4772: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4773: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4774: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
The Climbing Club • View topic - Lillooet- Marble Canyon Jan 4-6

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Sun Sep 15, 2019 9:56 pm

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 3 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 2:51 pm 
Offline
Raging Alpoholic
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:15 pm
Posts: 812
First of all, here’s the Lillooet conditions report:

Marble Canyon: Icy BC P1 and P2 are in, P3 looks very difficult to protect
Deeping Wall is in: There are two great lines here to lead or TR (only saw the right side
led).
There was discontinuous ice in the left corner of Icy BC that someone braver than us led.

Rambles: It was reported back that the left side had good, fat ice, but was wet. I’m not sure about the
Rest of Rambles
Image
photo by Veronika

Image
Photo by Veronika


Carlsberg: In, but thin. WI6 condition
Nightingale: appeared in
Sychronicity: appeared in (river crossing reported to be difficult/not possible, traverse instead)
Image
photo by Veronika

Shriek of the Sheep: Appeared to be nearly in, the final pitch might not by completely connected
Honeyman Falls: lots of ice, but also lots of running water, perhaps good after another cold snap.
The Plum: reported to not be in yet, difficult approach in current conditions
Image
photo by Veronika

Red Wall Wanderer: Saw crux pillar from the road, could be good, likely also has difficult approach with dusting of snow on bare rock.

That’s all I remember right now. Thanks Veronika for filling in some of the beta here!

As for our trip, Rafael and I spent 2 days getting in some ice practice at Marble Canyon. We started out on Icy BC. Rafael got in his first lead of the season with P1. I followed. We rapped and he led P1 again. Both of us cut our ascent time in half on this second lap. We’re getting into the swing of things. We continued on to the second pitch. P2 was thin near the top and one of Rafael’s pick placements went through the hollow tube with running water. We took a look at P3, but decided that it looked too difficult to protect. We went back down to the base, and got a TR on Deeping Wall from a group of fellow CC.com’ers. Thanks! This was a tremendous help for my confidence on ice. I found that I could take plenty of “rests” on this steep WI5 route if I planned it right. There were quite a few places that I could get most (but not quite all) of my weight on my feet and take turns shaking out one arm, then the other. With this strategy I made it up with no falls! I still can’t quite imagine what it would take to place a screw while leading this route though!

Day 2 was my day (as Rafael called it): We returned back to Marble Canyon and, with a few great pointers from Rafael, I got to lead P1 of Icy BC. That’s been a goal of mine since trip to Lillooet in 2009! Continued on to P2 of Icy BC (now getting quite wet and thin). Rafael took a stab at leading P3 (there was a top rope set there by another party, making for an easy bail out). He stopped after finding it difficult to look up with all of the running water from this section of waterfall. Temps had warmed up a lot since Saturday, we decided to call it an early day and start the long drive home. Hopefully it will cool off again in Lillooet. There’s a lot of ice there and it wouldn't take much for it to be in great shape again!

Rafael Leads Icy BC:
ImageImageImage

Deeping Wall:
ImageImage

I get to lead P1 Icy BC:
ImageImageImage

Ice formations:
ImageImageImageImage


Last edited by Valerie Wall on Tue Jan 08, 2013 10:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:20 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 01, 2009 12:43 pm
Posts: 302
Nice! Glad to see you got out on the ice :D Thanks for the good conditions report - hopefully there'll be another cold snap.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 12:01 am 
Offline
Conan the Destroyer

Joined: Fri Aug 22, 2008 10:13 am
Posts: 22
Location: Seattle
Nice Val. Looks like you've come a long way in your ice leading skills from last year. Way to get after it and climb strong.

_________________
Expecting life to treat you fairly because you are a good person is like expecting the bull not to charge because you are a vegetarian.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 3 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group